
Class. 
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Copyright K?. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrC 



NOTES ON 

LAND AND SEA 

1850 

ROBERT FRANK EVANS 




BOSTON 

RICHARD G. BADGER 

THE GORHAM PRESS 



Copyright, 1922, by Richard G. Badger 



All Rights Reserved 



MAR -9 1922 



Made in the United States of America 



The Gorham Press, Boston, U. S. A. i^s' 

Hi" ■ 



0)C!,A659074 



Lovingly Dedicated to 

THE Author's Grandsons 

CHARLES A. FARWELL 

AND 

FRANK EVANS FARWELL 



NOTES ON 
LAND AND SEA 



NOTES ON LAND 
AND SEA 

1850 

APRIL 17th, 4:15 o'clock, came and found us 
ready to leave old Shelbyville, Tennessee, for the 
Eldorado of the West. Myself, R. A. L. and C. 
having concluded to try our fortunes in that far^ 
famed land, so bidding adieu to our friends and 
families we stowed ourselves in the coach, the 
driver cracked his whip — and off we went. The 
first few miles of our journey was performed in 
silence — each one of us preferring to hold com- 
munion with his own thoughts, than with one 
another. Even the Lady passengers, of which 
there were several were silent. Reaching M. B. 
we partook of some of the Genl substantial — 
and again started on our journey. By this time 
the oppression was gradually wearing off, and 
elastic youth began to manifest itself. The Ladies 
talked incessantly 'probably to make up for lost 
time', the baby cried and all things wore a more 
cheerful aspect. Reaching N. about 2 we saw 

5 



6 Notes on Land and Sea 

and bid farewell to a few friends and acquain- 
tances, and getting on board the neat little 
steamer "Countess" landed alongside the fine 
and magnificent steamer "America" at Clarks- 
ville about ii :oi where we procured State Rooms 
— and turned in for the night, half sleepy and 
half melancholy. 

APRIL 1 8th. Arose this morning with a con- 
fused idea of something being wrong, so I rubbed 
my eyes and head a little before fully realizing 
my situation, which when done caused some sad 
reflections. Hearing the bell ring I put on my 
habiliments, and went to breakfast, after which 
we all went up in the City of C. to see and be 
seen. Travelled around some, then wrote a let- 
ter. Left C about 12, and proceeded down the 
river, to the 'Rolling Mills' where our Capt. 
stopped to take on freight. Went ashore and 
took a look at the furnaces, all red hot and glow- 
ing, and concluded whilst so engaged, that if the 
place we read of, and Divines talk about, was 
any worse looking than those fires; why, I did 
not wish to see it. While lying here and exam- 
ining the mills passengers found some 20 men 
from Sumner County on board, who were bound 
for the land of Gold — like myself and compan- 
ions. Leaving the mills we steamed away down 
the river to Canton, where a couple of our pas- 
sengers, were put ashore, for travelling under 



Notes on Land and Sea 7 

false pretenses. I made the acquaintance during 
the day of W.O.L. Manager of the Company 
from S. also several of the young men composing 
the company — found them agreeable and sociable, 
and think it probable that we may continue in 
Co. to California. Bed time coming on I rolled 
up on my shelf, and was soon in the land of 
Nod. 

FRIDAY, APRIL 19th. Awoke this morning 
and found the rain coming down, as tho' it were 
trying to raise a deluge, so got up and looked out 
— then looked in again, and finally dressed and 
went to breakfast. Boat took in some tobacco, 
then puffed away down the river, to the wreck of 
the "Charles Carrol", and put aboard some pork 
that the submarine No. 2 had raised. Rain — 
Rainy — Raining and so we travelled on to Eddy- 
ville to receive more freight. Partook of a light 
supper, played a few games of whist and then 
retired. 

APRIL 20th. Arose at 7, broke fast, and found 
the rain falling as on yesterday. Got on some 
sugar kettles and more tobacco, and returned to 
Ede, remaining there until noon. Myself and C 
went to the P.H. and got dinner, consisting of 
middling meat, with a streak of lean and a streak 
of fat, fried eggs, corn bread and sweet milk. 
Extracted a molar for one of the Gallatin Co. 
Saw a man who could talk faster and more of it 



8 Notes on Land and Sea 

than any man I ever saw before. He (the talking 

machine) was going to California provided 

his wife was willing, as he knew he could make 
his everlasting fortune there in a short time, for 
he had a patent gold washing machine — which 
would wash gold out of the dirt as well where it 
was, as where it was not. Saw the wreck of the 
clipper sunk. After tea took on board 1400 
dozen chickens, ducks, turkeys and geese. No 
danger of starving. 

APRIL 2 1st. Awoke up this morning at Smith- 
land, where we had some cotton to get aboard, 
Sunday tho' it be. So after eating breakfast, 
myself and K went up in town, and walked all 
over the City. I then called at the P.H. to see 
Miss P. and found her absent, consequently did 
not find her to deliver an epistle to her Pa. Hear- 
ing the church bells ring and feeling a little mel- 
ancholy pious concluded to go and hear a sermon 
— did so, and heard a very good one at the 
M.E. church. In the course of his remarks, the 
Preacher mentioned that we were all creatures 
of imitation, which I had seen illustrated very 
fairly the day before, thus : One of our passen- 
gers who had never travelled much, had been 
down examing the propelling powers, and internal 
workings of our craft, and seeing all the ma- 
chinery driven by steam, concluded he would try 
steaming himself, and at it he went, but instead of 



Notes on Land and Sea 9 

using wood and water, he used the essence of corn 
rye, and the first thing he knew, he was rolling on 
the floor, trying to keep himself from falling as he 
thought. So he gave it up as no go, for man from 
his peculiar organization, cannot be driven by 
steam like a water craft. Dined on board, had a 
fine dinner, with the exception of a very ancient 
turkey Gobbler, which I declined masticating on 
account of his age, having a great reverence for 
old age. Left S. about 6 and arrived at Paducah 
a little after 7, when the rain recommenced at a 
most tremendous rate. Thunder loud and light- 
ning vivid, in fact the elements appeared to be 
in great commotion; each separate cloud muster- 
ing all its forces for a general battle against some- 
thing or somebody. Saw H.D. and family on 
their way to Texas on board. Another company 
from East Tennessee on board for California, so 
that we now have about 40 men on our craft, all 
bound for the land of Gold. Wonder how many 
will reach there? and how many will ever return 
to their homes? Can't tell, so shan't try. Left 
P — at 8, read awhile, then to my couch. 
APRIL 22nd. On arising this morning found 
our gallant steamer ploughing her way down the 
mighty Mississippi, the daddy of all rivers, and 
upon whose broad bosom the produce of its great 
valley is wafted to market. Passed New Madrid, 
and stopped lo miles below to wood, when I went 



10 Notes on Land and Sea 

ashore, and in strolling about found myself before 
a good looking house, when the notion came into 
my head that I would go in, and see the folks — 

did so and found a nice widow, fat — fair — 

and — forty, and a young lady. Talked some 
with them about farming, marrying, etc., when 
the steamboat bell rang to call all stragglers 
aboard. So bidding them adieu hastened on 
board, and off we went at a glorious rate, the 
old America splitting the water, and dashing the 
foam and spray right and left. 
APRIL 23rd. Arose this morning from a re- 
freshing night's sleep, found ourselves somewhere, 
at first did not know where, but on examination 
found that we were going down stream which sat- 
isfied me. The Great River rising very fast, and 
from appearances bids fair to inundate the coun- 
try. After breakfast, lighted a cigar and went 
on top to smoke and think, and as I sat watching 
the curling wreaths of smoke that floated off in 
fantastic forms from my cigar, the resemblance 
between the great river we were on and the stream 
of life struck me very forcibly. Upon its waters 
is seen human life in all its varieties, the gilded 
rascal, and the honest man, the man of money 
and the man of want, the rich and the poor, the 
gaudily dressed woman seeking new pleasures, 
and the woman whose paled face and careworn 



Notes on Land and Sea ii 

countenance denoted sufferings intense, all, all 
are seen upon this great Creek. So with the 

Stream of Life all are hurrying on to that 

precipice from which none can escape. 

Weather, cold and damp, enough to give a 
man the blues, which we prevent by reading, talk- 
ing and card playing. Had a game of whist with 
Mr. K. and Lady and Dr. W., got beat, then read 
a novel by Bulwer, called Night and Morning, 
in which money is shown to be the one thing need- 
ful in this world. Phew I knew that long ago. 

Vegetation is forward here and everything 
gives evidence of abundance this season, at this 
particular time and place; the birds are caroling 
their gayest notes, as if welcoming the old dame 
nature with her mantle of green. And thus the 
day ends, and is numbered with things that were, 

and, and I'm a day older if no wiser. 

APRIL 24th. This morning upon rising found 
the boat still; enquired the cause, and found she 
was wooding. Off again pretty soon, and reached 
Vicksburg about i P. M. Went up in town, and 
was much pleased with the appearance of the 
City. Some fine buildings and upon the whole a 
neat place. The Court House is on a knoll, and 
with its enclosed yard full of shrubs and flowers 
and pretty walks, presented a fine appearance. 
Citizens generally good looking, and a pleasure 



12 Notes on Land and Sea 

loving people. Left V. at 4, and passed Natchez 
about 12 at night, then swallowed some wine and 
went to roost. 

APRIL 25th. Got up to breakfast, and as usual 
for the last few days, found the boat at a wood 
pile at the mouth of Red river. Steamer St. 
Louis passed up, new and fine looking boat. Ducks, 
geese and gulls plentiful. Still raining and river 
rising. Passed Baton Rouge in the afternoon — 
— very pretty place situated on the highest land 
between Natchez and N. O. The State House 
an odd but splendid looking building. The farms, 
all verdant with sugar cane, which could be 
plainly seen from the hurricane deck of our boat, 
in fact the river being high, we were higher than 
the banks, the land and even some of the houses, 
and were it not for the levees, the greater part of 
the farms on the river this low down would now 
be under water. This being our last night on the 
Steamer America we had some rare sport, eating, 
drinking and spinning yarns; champagne bottles 
were emptied, songs sung, and all the appurte- 
nances of a carnival meeting carried on, until the 
wee short hours a'yant the twals warned us to 
bed. E.K.A.S. of Nashville, and some others 
were in for it, and went it. 
APRIL 26th. Awoke this morning with a most 
excruciating cephalalgia, the fruits of my last 
night's indiscretion, but those who dance must pay 



Notes on Land and Sea 13 
the piper, consequently as Foote would say 



" 'tis of no consequence." Feeling so very bad I 
remained on board, whilst some of our company 
went up to 'Fayette, to see the steamship "Fal- 
con", and procure tickets for Chagres on her, but 
not being able to do so engaged passage on the 
Schooner "Chanan" Ducey, Master, at $45 for 
cabin passage on her to Chagres. They returned, 
and so reported, when we had our baggage taken 
on board of her. Feeling very unwell I went to 
the Hotel, took a room and went to bed, where 
I remained all day. After tea took a stroll to 
see the sights of the Crescent City : went to the 
"Placide Variety Theatre", and saw "Old Heads 
and Young Hearts" performed. Mrs. Black 
playing the part of Lady Pompion. Then to my 
room and to bed. 

APRIL 27th. Was awakened this morning by 
the 'noise and confusion' of a City. At first, was 
inclined to the belief that something unusual had 
happened, but recollecting where I was, concluded 
all was right, so donning my apparel went down 
to breakfast, and having satisfied the inner man. 
lighted a cigar, and started out. Seeing an omni- 
bus passing pretty full, I concluded to take a ride, 
as there is always room in such vehicles for one 
or two more, no matter how many be in it. Got 
in and rode as far as that bus went, which was 
to the depot of the N.O. and Lake Pontchartrain 



14 Notes on Land and Sea 

Rail Road. Walked around through the market 
in that part of the City and saw a good many 
things, that I knew, and a good many more that 
I did not. As there was a considerable crowd 
gathered about a little box or office I pushed my- 
self in amongst them to learn what was going on, 
and found that they were all procuring tickets to 
go to the Lake on the cars, so thinking I might 
find, see or hear something I'd never seen or 
heard before, handed in my quarter and re- 
ceived a small bit of blue pasteboard, which 
entitled me to a seat in the car, so taking 
a favorable location I seated myself to ex- 
amine matters in general, and folks in par- 
ticular. There were all sorts of persons, the 
rich planter with his open countenance and rubi- 
cund visage, indicative of high living, the Span- 
iard with dark eye and mustache, the fun loving 
son of the Emerald Isle, the woolly headed de- 
scendant of Cato and Cuajo's, and also some of 
the fair sex all mingled together, seeking plea- 
sure, and attending to business. Whilst so en- 
gaged the engine gave a snort and a whistle and 
off we went. A short half hour ride brought us 
to the stopping place, when getting out, I com- 
menced a survey of my whereabouts. As the 
season had not opened there was very little go- 
ing on, so after looking at the gardens, the houses, 
lake, and taking a bit of the finny and shelly tribe, 



Notes on Land and Sea 15 

I left, impressed with the belief that a person, 
could at certain seasons of the year, be kept quite 
busy out there thro the day, by fishing and other 
amusements, and at night by fighting the mos- 
quitoes and the flies. Returning to the City I spent 
the afternoon seeing the public buildings, parks, 
etc. some of which are quite ornamental. After 
tea, went to the theatre, where the new "Grand 
Romantic Operatic Extravagant Entertainment" 
called "Camaralzman" or the "Peri who loved 
the Prince" was performed; Mrs. Howard, Miss 
Melville and Mrs. Johnson playing the principal 
characters, which according to my notions they 
done up brown. Some good dancing and farce 
wound up the evening entertainment, when I 
sought my couch, and was soon in a happy state 
of forgetfulness. 

APRIL 28th. On examining my "Phiz" this 
morning was a little astonished at its appearance, 
for it looked as tho I had been engaged in a 
fight, which to the best of my recollection was 
not so; and upon inquiring of my neighbors found 
that they had slept but little on account of the 
mosquitoes presenting so many bills against them 
and insisting on immediate payment, and as I 
had paid no attention to their importunities they 
had satisfied themselves in their own way. After 
breakfast went up to Fayette, thence by car to 
CarroUton, where we spent a few pleasant hours 



l6 Notes on Land and Sea 

in examining the gardens and pleasure grounds, 
and occasionally imbibing something cooling and 
refreshing. There was a great variety of flowers 
and exotic plants and fruits blooming and ripen- 
ing on every side, but as they were more orna- 
mental than useful we did not touch or taste. Re- 
turning to the City, visited some of the churches, 
it being Sunday, and saw some of the Catholic 
ceremonies. In the afternoon took a walk to 
see the natives, as they were all out in their holi- 
day attire English, French, Spanish, Dutch 

and darkies, all going to and fro. On Congo 
Square saw fiddling and dancing, Sunday tho it 
was, which struck me as being rather irreligious, 
if nothing worse. Saw some pretty Creoles with 
their slender forms, dark eyes. After tea wrote 
some epistles and then having made preparations 
against the depredators of the night before, re- 
tired. 

APRIL 29th. Arose at 7 and breakfasted. As 
this was the last day in N.O. determined to travel 
around smartly; so we started out and meeting 
with some of the Gallatin Company, we pro- 
ceeded to LaFayette, and examined the steamship 
Falcon, from thence back to the steamboat 
America where I saw some acquaintances; talked 
awhile with them, about California in particular 
and some other things in general such as wind, 



Notes on Land and Sea 17 

water, wine and "wimen." Wrote some letters 
and left them on board when bidding adieu to all; 
left to see the O.F.'s procession, which was the 
grandest affair of the kind I ever saw. Their Re- 
gaha glittering in the sun, while their steady tread, 
to the sound of soul stirring music, was a feast 
to the organs, optic and auricular. Their ark 
on a magnificent car, drawn by four white char- 
gers, gave one a fair representation of Oriental 
splendor and magnificence. After looking and 
promenading about considerable, which creates 
both heat and thirst, we dropped into one of those 
cooling saloons and spent an agreeable hour, over 
our cups. Going out on Canal street met one of 
nature's loveliest flowers, tripping along the ad- 
mired of all beholders. I caught her eye and 
such an eye — 

"Like the starlight of the soft midnight. 
So darkly beautiful, so deeply bright." 

I gazed again, and again, and thought no 

matter what; she had 

"Sweet, pouting lips, whose colour mocks the rose. 

Rich, ripe and teeming with the dew of bliss 

The flower of love's forbidden ifruit, which 

grows 
Insidiously, to tempt us with a kiss." 



1 8 Notes on Land and Sea 

The form of a sylph, and just then a cab rattling 

close by broke the spell, and left me free to 

wander on. 

In a multitude of counsel there is wisdom, so 
we all consulted together, about what should be 
purchased in the way of dainties and stomachics 
before going to sea, and having consulted what to 
get, we did so and went aboard. (I purchased a 
few medicines, instruments etc.) At 3 P. M. we 
cast loose from the wharf, and pulled out from 
among the shipping, when the towboat De Soto 
carried us down to the landing opposite the U.S. 
Mint and left us there until 8, when we again 
fastened on to the towboat M. along with two 
Spanish brigs and a schooner, and off we started 
for Chagres. The night being very dark, we 
could see nothing of the beautiful farms along 
the river, nor the ground where Old Hickory did 
the first Packenhams. So taking it for granted that 
the old battle grounds. Fort Jackson and Phillip 

were in Statu quo 1 sought my bunk, wearied 

out with the fatigue of the day. 
APRIL 30th. Awoke up and found from the 
motion of our Schooner that we were going ahead, 
so going up on deck saw that the towboat was 
dragging us along fine (the two brigs and tiie 
charran) the little schooner that started with 
us was nowhere to be seen, having broke loose 
sometime in the night. Breakfast over I sat on 



Notes on Land and Sea 19 

the deck gazing at the receding lands of U. S. 
for we were soon to bid adieu to them for awhile, 
and to some of us probably forever. 9 A.M. the 
T.B. left us, and carried the two brigs out to 
sea, we remaining in the river to fill water casks, 
tighten riggings etc. There is quite a town at 
the mouth of this pass (the southwest) where the 
Pilots for the River and Bar live with their fami- 
lies. The country on each side is low and marshy, 
unfit for agricultural pursuits of any character. 
At 1 1 A.M. all things being ready, the anchor was 
raised with a Ye Oh He, the bow turned towards 
the Gulf and with just wind enough to fill the 
sails we glided out into the dark blue sea. Pass- 
ing over the bar we soon felt the peculiar heave 
of old ocean and saw the unbounded expanse of 
its unceasing waters. There came the cry 

"The sea ! the sea ! the open sea ! 

The blue, the fresh, the ever free; 

Without a mark, without a bound. 

It runneth the earth's wide region round; 
. It plays with the clouds; it mocks the sky. 

Or like a cradled creature lies." 

' Our passengers numbering 60 or more were 
from nearly all parts of the United States, and 
some from France, Switzerland and Germany. 
There was one old lady a Swiss on board 



20 Notes on Land and Sea 

amongst the number, and as the greater part of us 
had never been to sea before, we were delighted 
with the prospect. The water near the shore has 
a greenish appearance, but as we receded from 
land, the colour gradually changed, until it as- 
sumed that deep dark blue tint, about which poets 
write and sing. One o'clock was our dinner hour 
and not eating much breakfast, I felt as tho' I 
could make ample amends, but just as we were 
sitting down to table, a squall came up, the ship 
gave a lurch, and all my appetite was gone; for 
then came the indescribable sensation, called sea 
sickness. I rushed up on deck to catch the fresh 
air, which revived considerably, and thought no 
more of dinner that day. In the afternoon amused 
myself watching the other passengers, some of 
whom were very sick, and were cascading beauti- 
fully. Saw large schools of Porpoises rolling, tum- 
bling and sporting in their native element, also 
a large number of the "Nautilus", a soft pulpy 
looking affair floating about apparently without 
end or aim. They were an odd looking affair, 
and put me in mind of an old Lady's night cap 
more than anything else I could think of at that 
time. Two ships in sight and with their sails 
all white and full, looked really beautiful. Our 
course after clearing the bar was sou'east. By 
this time nearly all the passengers were sick, 



Notes on Land and Sea 21 

casting up accounts, and a Tar in passing us would 
occasionally illuminate his Phiz at our expense. 
I laughed at those who were sickest until my turn 
came around, when some one else could and did 
laugh at me. And now as evening Shades ap- 
peared I enjoyed the finest sight I had yet seen, 
"Sunset at Sea". Old Sol gradually sunk to rest, 
calm, peaceful and serene, looking like a great 
ball of fire "about to be put out as it entered 
the water". After partaking slightly of supper, 
I stretched myself on deck, to enjoy the delicious 
and cooling sea breeze, and watched the stars — 
— those windows of heaven; as they one by one 
peeped out from the departing rays of old King 
Sol. Out, out they came, until the whole heav^ens 
were thickly studied "with those Isles of light" 
when upon looking down into the dark, blue sea, 
it appeared as if we were gliding along Thr' and 
o'er another heaven, all bright with stars like 
the one above us: — 

"For every wave, with dimpled face, 
That leap'd upon the air, 
Had caught a star in its embrace. 
And held it trembling there." 

The moon came rising up out of the water (as 
the Baptist would say) which completed the pic- 
ture of all things lovely to be seen to night, and 



22 Notes on Land and Sea 

I laid me down to sleep for the first time out 
of Uncle Sam's dominions. 
WEDNESDAY, MAY ist, 1850. Upon go- 
ing on deck this morning I strained my gaze in 
all directions to see if there was any dirt to be 
seen, but none appearing, I felt for the first time 
since leaving home a feeling of desolation come 
o'er me. This soon gave place tho' to other 
feelings, as, bustling active life, on a small scale 
it's true, began to manifest itself around me. Two 
sails in sight this morning, the same that came 
out from N. O. with us, all bound for different 
havens. One of our passengers, Vinsant from 
Monroe County, Tenn., very sick, something like 
cholera. Dr. R. who was in his company from 
the same county, waiting on him, and at his re- 
quest 1 saw him with Dr. C. We found him cold, 
pulseless and collapsed, with all appearances of 
a speedy dissolution taking place. I little thought 
my prophesy would be so speedily fulfilled, that 
some of us on board had seen land for the last 
time; yet, so it was, for a few minutes before 
3 P.M. V. breathed his last. Man proposes, 
but God disposes. He left a wife and several 
children at home to seek his fortune in the far 
west, but a few short days had elapsed, and now 
he's gone to that land from whence no one re- 
turns; leaving his family to struggle through life 
as best they can. May He who tempers the wind 



Notes on Land and Sea 23 

to the shorn lamb, guide and protect them through 
life's vale of tears. 

At noon all traces of the two ships seen in the 
morning had disappeared, and nothing could be 
seen but the blue sky above, and the blue sea 
below. About sunset, the remains of Vinsant 
were committed to the deep, the first burial at 

sea I had ever seen and, oh, may it be the 

last. Wrapt in his blanket and some canvass, he 
was laid on a plank, weights attached to his feet, 
the funeral service performed by the Rev. Mr. 
Cunningham, and friend and companion of his; 
when the plank was raised, and the mortal re- 
mains given to the deep blue waters. A plunge, 
a few bubbles and all was o'er. The waters closed 
and regained their smoothness, as tho' the taber- 
nacle of an immortal spirit had never ruffled its 
surface. 

A gloom was cast over all, and but little was 
said the remainder of the evening, each one re- 
tiring silent to rest, thinking of of what, 

can't tell for the human mind is an unfathom- 
able mystery. 

MAY 2nd. Up at six and saw a sail bound in. 
Saw flying fish in abundance. They rise from 
the water generally on a wave, and fly with the 
wind as long as their fins remain damp, but fall 
as soon as they become dry. Wind fair in the 
forenoon, but towards noon fell off, and left us 



24 Notes on Land and Sea 

nearly becalmed. My seasickness continues to 
grow worse, tho' the most of the passengers are 
recovering. 

MAY 3rd. Nothing new, but very sick, some 
fever, unable to go on deck, which is very dis- 
agreeable, as our cabin is small; and hot sun 
o'er head. Crawled up on deck after sundown. 
MAY 4th. Several squalls today which increase 
of my suffering as the Hatches were fastened down 
tight and nearly suffocated me. Wind variable 
and light. 

MAY 5th. Was but a repetition of day before, 
and was altogether about as unpleasant a Sab- 
bath as I ever spent, or wish to. 
MAY 6th. Same as preceeding days with ex- 
ception of a Dolphin which the Capt. hauled 
aboard, that caused a little excitement among us, 
as but few of us had ever seen one before. Dur- 
ing the process of dying its skin assumed all the 
tints of the rainbow. 

MAY 7th. Hot, hot, very hot; today we entered 
the Torrid Zone, or rather the Horrid one, for 
the heat is almost insupportable. The fitful airs 
throughout the day indicated the near vicinity of 
land, while a few small birds, "Mother Carey's" 
chickens would occasionally flutter around, and 
light among the rigging. 

MAY 8th. Sick and tired of sea a'ready, and 
half way believe those fellows who sigh and sing 



Notes on Land and Sea 25 

for "A life on the ocean wave, a home on the 
briny deep", etc., were pretty confounded tight 
when they said so, if not they differ from me con- 
siderable. Water very bad, thick and muddy, 

bad enough for a well person and a 

sight too bad for a sick one if they could get 
better. Have eaten nothing for six days and 
feel less like it now than ever. This afternoon 
we saw the coast of Cuba. Low sand hills, with 
an occasional headland was all that could be 
seen. 

MAY 9th. The coast of Cuba in sight this morn- 
ing. Winds contrary and light, becalmed nearly 
all day. One of the passengers caught a fish 
today called a Grouper, the flesh of which was 
very good to those that were well enough to eat, 

but for myself 1 feel as little like eating as 

if it was unnecessary so to do. 
MAY loth. Brig in sight this morning for 
several hours, as was Cape San Antonio, a bold 
and high land jutting out into the sea. Winds 
light and as contrary as a cross feminine; hot 
hotter, hottest enough to drive a sick-un crazy. 
Saw 6 or 7 sail during the day, standing N-N.E. 
sailing beautifully, while we were tacking con- 
stantly and scarcely made a knot an hour in the 
right direction. About sunset saw 'Cape Cur- 
rents' as the day ended and left us wallow- 
ing about in the trough of a rolling sea. Coral 



26 Notes on Land and Sea 

could be seen frequently to day, whenever the 
vessel was in soundings. 

MAY nth. During the night a good breeze 
sprung up, and our craft walked through the 
waters "like a thing of life." My health better 
today than since I started on the Gulf. Passed 
in full view of the Isle of Pines, rendered famous 
as being the home of Pirates years agone. To- 
wards noon wind died away as usual, and left 
us becalmed. Walked on deck about sunset and 
saw Cape de Cruise. About eight bells wind 
freshened up, and blew us back all we made dur- 
ing the day. Passengers talking about drawing 
lots to find the Jonah, as some thought there must 
be one aboard. 

MAY 1 2th. Met a steamer about 12 last night 
but was too far off to make her out. 10 A.M. 
saw a Spanish man-of-war, on the lookout for 
Lopez and all who were assisting the revolution- 
izers. She showed the colors of old Spain, and 
our Capt. returned the compliment by throwing 
to the breeze the "Star Spangled Banner". Hot 
sun and light winds, made another (to me) un- 
comfortable Sabbath. Afternoon saw five sails 
inward bound from their course. 
MAY 13th. Health of passengers improving. 
My own better than since leaving N.O. Slept 
well last night, and dreamed of home. Methought 
I was back among friends, but the morning light 



Notes on Land and Sea 27 

dispelled the sweet illusion, and found me on the 
blue waters of old ocean, so I broke forth and 
sung: 

"Here's a sigh for those who love me, 
And a smile for those who hate; 
And whatever sky's above me, 
Here's a heart for every fate." 

Afternoon the mate harpooned a porpoise, 
and hauled him on deck. He was a large fellow 
about 200 pounds weight, and had more brains 
than some men I've seen. 

MAY 14th. Arose early and enjoyed the luxury 
of a sea bath, then made a hearty breakfast off 
the porpoise brains and meat. Wind fair and 
fine until noon, when it falls off and leaves us 
nearly becalmed beneath a tropical sun. Dined 
on porpoise meat coarse and dark, but of toler- 
able flavor. Saw two sails careening onward. 
Steerage passengers petitioned for better prov- 
ender, when the Capt. ordered the steward to sup- 
ply them according to requirements. After tea 
had some music, songs etc. About ten heard a 
young Grampus ablowing alongside of us, looked 
down and saw the outline of the young monster. 
Stretching myself out on the poop deck I mused 
on many things, and whilst doing so fell asleep. 
MAY 15th. Dull day. Not wind enough stir- 



28 Notes on Land and Sea 

ring to disturb a lady's curls. Some one hooked 
a shark, but he cut the line in a moment and was 
off. Caught a kind fish and pilot fish; the 
latter always go with and ahead of sharks. Capt. 
D. says he never experienced such calms and 
head winds in these latitudes before, but then a 
Capt. says a good many things about wind and 
water which I know nothing about. Glad when 
night comes. 

MAY 1 6th. Same as yesterday, only more so. 
Hot, very. Passengers getting quarrelsome, but 
as yet no fights. Day ends and night begins, wish 
it was always night. 

MAY 17th. One month today since leaving 
home, and not one fourth of the way to Califor- 
nia. Fine breeze this morning and the Charron 
going finely. Quite a school of dolphins playing 
around us. Some one harpooned one but he got 
away. At noon in latitude 19:21 and immedi- 
ately under the sun; a place the Captain said he'd 
never been before — tho' he had been on the Gulf 
many years, and a place I wish not to be in again, 
if it is as hot as this today. Mate harpooned 
a dolphin, and landed him on deck. New awn- 
ing this afternoon. Wind light and fitful. Land 
north of us. 

MAY 1 8th. Cephalalgia this morning. But 
little wind stirring and that changeable as the 



Notes on Land and Sea 29 

smiles of a coquette. So we exist through the 
day and live at night. 

MAY 19th. Another Sabbath on sea, and with 
it came a sail. Little Van, a passenger from N.O. 
lost his purse overboard with all his cash. A con- 
tribution was started among the passengers and 
$40 raised and given to him. In the afternoon a 
fine breeze which revived us all smartly. I have 
noticed for the last few evenings that the wind 
rises a little later every day, in proportion to the 
rising of the moon, which is said by some to 
govern the winds in these latitudes; 16:56 today 
at noon. 

MAY 20th. Indications of rain, squally. Wind 
from N.E. Rainbow in N.W. looked very pret- 
ty. Seems as hot as ever. Passengers game, 
read, laugh and talk etc. 

MAY 2 1 St. Some cooler this morning from the 
rains and squalls of yesterday. Clouds piled up 
all around this morning like grim old fortresses 
of the feudal times. Noon latitude 13^^ and 
little wind. Porpoises innumerable. Time drags 
heavily and slowly. Sundown the winds revived, 
the clouds dispersed, and we sailed on "through 
cloudless climes and starry skies." 
MAY 22nd. Birds of various species flying 
around us today, there being some of the Cayenne 
Islands near us, tho' not in sight. My health 



30 Notes on Land and Sea 

improving and appetite voracious. Latitude 
12:18. Showery and squally. Mate spun me a 
yarn. 

MAY 23rd. Up at daybreak to enjoy the cool and 
bracing sea breeze, and luxuriate in a bath. Noon 
hot and calm. Cry of land this evening, which 
became plainly visible before dark, and by moon- 
light the mountains of New Granada were dis- 
tinct to the eye (divested of garments). 
MAY 24th. Saw the coast very plain this mor- 
ning, and with a stiff breeze we ran into harbor in 
gallant style. Then came the hurry and bustle 
of debarking. Got our baggage on a boat, low- 
ered ourselves into the same, and put for land. 
Sea rough. On the left entering the mouth of 
Chagres River stands the old Spanish fort, jut- 
ting out sufficient to command the whole coast 
for several miles. It is an ancient looking piece 
of work with port towers, and all the ingredients 
of a warlike place, if in repair and properly man- 
ned, but now gradually crumbling beneath decay 
and neglect. 

"Where round some mouldering tower pale 

ivy creeps, 
And low browed rocks hang nodding o'er the 
deep." 

All giving evidence of the impress of time. I did 
not visit as my company were anxious to proceed 



Notes on Land and Sea 31 

on up the river soon as possible. A little higher 
up the river stands the Mexican Chagres, built 
of cane stalks and palmettos, with a few stone 
houses. On the right where we landed is the new 
American Chagres, nearly as large as the other, 
and doing all the business. Upon landing we 
were saluted with a most distressing din made 
by the natives, who were ready and willing to 
take us up the river for a certain number of pesos. 
Such a jargon I never heard, each one telling 
the superior advantages of his boat over another 
one. After walking about seeing the sights, and 
kicking over the buzzards, I entered a house and 
feeling fatigued called for and obtained some- 
thing to refresh wearied nature. We at length 
hired a boat from an Irishman F., stowed away 
our baggage in it, jumped in, and started up the 
river Chagres, sick and tired of the naked na- 
tives and their lingo, the hot sun and the generally 
filthy town of Chagres. Some of our company 

L went in another boat, ours not being large 

enough to carry us all and our baggage. We were 
the first to start but soon had the mortification 
to see several boats pass us, as ours was manned 
by U.S. darkies, and they did not understand boat- 
ing like the natives. The wind was refreshing 
and for the first few miles, we travelled along 
delightfully, gazing at the beautiful scenery on 
each side of us. The growth was rank and luxurir 



32 Notes on Land and Sea 

ant, consisting of trees and flowers, new and 
strange to me ; occasionally we would catch a 
glimpse of an orange grove, richly laden with its 
luscious fruit, while from the top of a cocoanut 
tree, we would hear the chattering and see the 
antics of numerous monkeys. Lying on the bank 
and on logs, the rough skin alligator would be 
seen at full length taking his siesta in the rays 
of old Sol. Fish innumerable were sporting all 
around us, and the birds of rare and beautiful 
plumage were regaling us with the most delightful 
serenades. Altogether the scene was beautiful, 
tho' strange. About sunset we stopped at an 
Indian town, but which the Americans have bap- 
tised Newtown, where we cooked some of the 
provisions we had with us, ate them, and after 
looking into the houses of the natives, "to see 
and be seen", we took boat and proceeded up 
the river by moonlight until 1 1 o'clock, when 
we came up with our companions. Having ob- 
tained a miserable cup of coffee, we rolled our 
blankets around us and stretching out on the sand 
were soon in the land of forgetfulness. Sleeping 
as sound as tho' we had beds of down to rest our 
weaned limbs upon. 

MAY 25th. Getting up before *de brake ob day' 
we got breakfast at an American's tent, (put 
up lately to accommodate the travelling public) 
aroused our boatmen, and commenced paddling 



Notes on Land and Sea 33 

our course up the river again. As our boat was 
clumsy, our boatmen awkward, one or two of us 
had to assist in paddling to keep up with our 
companions; this with a very hot sun was very 
disagreeable, and we resolved to change our ship 
the first opportunity, which did not occur until 
night. The banks became higher as we advanced 
up, the stream narrower and swifter, so that in 
some places we had hard work to get along. Ma- 
hogany trees grew large and in great quantities, 
and are used by the natives for making canoes 
etc. Ours was dug out of a large mahogany tree. 
Tropical fruits of all kinds hung around in great 
profusion, while the babboons, monkeys and 
birds kept up an incessant noise, the one harsh 
and the other musical. During the day we met 
many returning, some from the gold mines and 
some from Panama, who had become disheartened 
and tired of their trip, and were returning to 
their homes and friends in the U.S. Some from 
California were returning well paid for their 
trials and dangers they had encountered, while 
others were scarcely able to draw themselves 
along; out of money, out of health and every- 
thing else, that a sick man needs. The first gave 
glowing accounts of the California Mines, while 

the latter d d it as the worst country under 

the sun. We passed several little villages or 
ranches through the day, stopping to get some- 



34 Notes on Land and Sea 

thing to eat and drink from the natives who are 
a lazy and mixed set of human beings. Night 
coming on we encamped on the banks (our boat 
and one other) where we fell to cooking and eat- 
ing, like hungry fellows. After tea, or rather 
after meat and bread, for our drink was river 
water, we hailed a boat passing down, and for 
$10 engaged it to carry us up Cruces next day, 
and then wrapping our blankets around us we 
located ourselves, on a sandy and soft spot, to 
pass the dull hours of night, to the best advan- 
tage. 

SUNDAY 26th. MAY. Up early and after par- 
taking of a hasty and hot plate of soup, boiled on 
the coal and ashes we jumped aboard and once 
more commenced our toilsome trip up Chagres 
River. Our position was more comfortable this 
morning, as the boat was larger than the one 
we had before, having sent the former back with a 
very polite request that the owner Mr. F. would 
go to the devil with his old boat. So far we had 
found that the whites on the Isthmus were greater 
rascals than the natives, for they swindled while 
the latter would only steal. After travelling 
a few miles we got out and walked some distance 
when coming to an Indian rancho, I went in and 
made the good woman of the house understand 
that we wanted something to eat or drink or both. 
She looked at us for some time, gave a grunt then 



Notes on Land and Sea 35 

proceeded to supply our wants, which she did by 
filling a calabash of milk for each of us, and set 
it down on the floor, a dirt one, for our accommo- 
dation. Seeing some dirty young uns engaged in 
the same business, we pitched into it, or rather 
pitched it into ourselves, forked over the pewter 
and departed. Our boat coming up we crossed 
the river, and started on foot again. We pres- 
ently found another rancho, and walking in called 
for something to eat and drink. The senorita 
who was in attendance informed us that some 
other Americanos had just taken the last she 
had. 

Some of our company left the boat here and 
walked on to Gorgona ; myself and R. remained to 
watch the baggage, as the natives are prone to 
appropriate to themselves whatever they can, 
when an opportunity offers. We walked the 
greater part of the way, as the river was narrow, 
shallow and rapid in a great many places. Our 
boatmen would plunge in the water whenever they 
got warm, and as they were not troubled with ap- 
parel of any kind had no trouble of drying or 
changing garments. During our tramp along the 
river's bank, we crossed some rough and hilly 
country with thick tangled and impenetrable (to 
us) undergrowth. Saw a defunct mule and a 
man's hat, whereupon K went into a problematical 
discussion as to whom the said hat belonged to 



36 Notes on Land and Sea 

etc., finally concluding that like ourselves, the 
owner was a traveller to the golden regions and 
had there been murdered. Reached Gorgona 
about I P.M. and found our company there, rested 
and refreshed from a good meal, victuals done 
up American fashion. We satisfied the inner 
man, and then walked out to view the town, 
which consisted, like the others of Spanish origin, 
of cane palm and brush houses, with a church 
of stone, and a frame house, called "The French 
Hotel" lately built by some aspiring Yankee. 
Dogs, naked children and filthy men and women 
abounded while occasionally some aristocratic half 
dressed critter of either sex would indicate the 
elite of the town. Then again some pompous, 
sleek, well-fed looking individual with broad brim 
hat, flowing robes and sandals, would indicate the 
priest. Numbers of both sexes bathing in the 
river in full view of the town, and in a hot 
broiling sun. Resting about an hour, we again 
started up the river, the banks of which were 
higher and steeper, with an occasional precipice 
standing out bold and steep into the very stream. 
Flowers and fruits were occasionally seen, tho' 
less frequent than lower down the river, but for 
their loss we were richly compensated, by the 
incessant and melodious warbling of innumerable 
birds. Saw several eagles soaring aloft: 



Notes on Land and Sea 37 

"Bird of the broad and sweeping wing, 
Thy home is high in heaven, 
Where wide the storms their banners fling, 
And tempest clouds are driven." 

Some of our company walking concluded to try 
a near cut to Cruces, but after wandering about 
some time in the hills and hollows, they came back 
to the river some distance below us, when we had 
to unload and send the boat back for them, as they 

had got to the place "thus far shalt thou go, 

and no farther". They came up mad with them- 
selves and the boatman, and we loaded up to try 
the now narrow, crooked, shallow and swift 
stream again. Working hard all hands and the 
cook, we reached Cruces about 93^ P.M. wet, hun- 
gry and tired. Got some supper, when some of 

the crowd went to see the sights of the town, 

a Fandango going on ^but feeling wearied I 

rolled my blankets around me, sought a smooth 
piece of mother earth, and with the interminable 
jargon of the natives ringing in my ears, was soon 
enjoying the blessing of sound and refreshing 
sleep. "Nature's sweet restorer", unconscious 
and uncaring for all around me. 
MAY 27th. Up early this morning preparing 
for the trip to Panama. Cruces with the excep- 
tion of a stone church and an American house, 
like Gorgona and Chagres. Natives a mixed 



38 Notes on Land and Sea 

multitude, African, Spanish and Indians; hetero- 
geneous compound of human nature. It was 
amusing to hear and see our boy making bargains 
with them to convey us to Pa., the big round 
oath of an American contrasting with the sang 
froid of the Spaniard's "Caramba". First we 
bargained with an American to transport our 
baggage across. He acted the rascal as nearly all 
the English did with whom we had any deal- 
ings, and refused to go. We next engaged with 
a native to convey our luggage across, when some 

D Yankee told him not to go unless we 

gave him more than he had agreed to go with us 
for. This fooled us a second time, we commenced 
anew, and after talking a good deal, swearing 
a parcel, and loading and unloading the mules 
and horses several times, word was at length 
given to forward march. The natives having 
seen so many strangers in the last year or two, 
manifested but little curiosity at our appearance, 
for which we made ample amends by professing 
great curiosity about them and their concerns 
generally. We would go into their houses, scan 
the contents, ask a few questions, which they did 
not understand, and leave. Some few of the fe- 
males were rather good looking, fine figures, 
magnificent black eyes, and small feet and hands, 
the last a desideratum, that all Ladies wish for. 
Before leaving Cruces, we purchased some pro- 



Notes on Land and Sea 39 

visions from some Yankee grocer, for they are 
here and everywhere else, where there is a dime 
to be made. Passengers who had 100 pounds or 
less in weight hired the natives to carry them on 
their backs, which they could do, and travel as 
fast as I could walk with no extra weight and 
sometimes scarcely any garments. As we were 
leaving the suburbs, saw a number of the natives 
around a corpse with long wax candles burning; 
saying a mass for the departed spirit, and prob- 
ably praying the soul out of purgatory. Their 
noisy clamor was almost enough to raise the dead, 
if such a thing could be done. 

Now at length we're off for Pa. God knows 
when we will come back, if ever. The path or 
road led off into a dense thicket soon after leav- 
ing town, with occasionally some large trees, in- 
terspersed to break the monotony of the impene- 
trable chaparral. We soon struck the mountains, 
our course being E. by S. but owing to the wind- 
ings of our mountain path, we travelled to all 
points of the compass. Sometimes on the top and 
sides of the mountains, then again our route was 
in the deep gorges with scarce room enough for 
the mules with their packs to get along. Our 
guide when coming to such places would hallo' 
until the hills reverberated to give notice to any 
who might be meeting us, that we were in first, 
and had precedence; for if two parties were to 



40 Notes on Land and Sea 

meet in the many places, the one nearest the 
entrance would have to crawfish, or were they so 
disposed a Grant and McPherson combat might 
ensue, with this difference, that whilst McPher- 
son threw his adversary over and down a preci- 
pice here he would have the Herculaneum task of 
throwing his opponent upwards from ten to 
thirty feet, for the bluffs were frequently that 
high. But owing to a previous understanding 
and I suppose their signs, we passed through all 
such places without 'let or hindrance'. Birds were 
numerous, and except at heat of day beguiled 
our tedious march by their melodious melody. 
The heat in those gorges was intense, as not a 
breath of air could be felt, this with a scarcity 
of water, made our trip anything but agreeable. 
3 P.M. we came to a rancho on the top of the 
highest knob we had yet ascended (we had been 
ascending all day) when our muleteers halted and 
commenced unloading the mules. We wished to 
go farther but all our threats and entreaties were 
of no avail, as they were determined to stop. Find- 
ing our day's journey at an end I walked in the 
house (if such a thing could be called a house) 
and found a senorita reclining in a hammock 
leisurely puffing her cigarette; saluting her in the 
best manner I knew how, then taking off my boots 
and hat, I threw myself into an unoccupied ham- 
mock alongside of her to rest my wearied limbs, 



Notes on Land and Sea 41 

and take a survey of my locality. After resting 
awhile went out with the gun and shot a Pheasant 
or something very much resembling one. Game 
appeared plentiful, but the undergrowth was so 
thick that I could not go through it with any 
comfort or dispatch, so came back, and prepared 
supper which consisted of crackers that we had 
with us and a cup of coffee and boiled rice which 
we got from the senorita in attendance. After 
tea we spread our blankets on the ground, beneath 
a shed, and prepared to spend the night to the 
best advantage, which was bad enough at best, 
the fleas having a prior claim to lodging place. 
Finding I could not sleep I got up and had a 
long talk with some gentlemen who were on their 
way home from California. One or two had made 
money, but others were returning with scarce a 
cent and that great boon health entirely and 
irrevocably destroyed. Upon comparing notes 
with some from Panama, I found that I was pass- 
ing this night on the backbone of America. There 
were some returning from Panama who gave a 
most horrid account of the place, the sickness and 
the difficulty in getting away from there, the 
number of passengers there numbering about 
3000, and steamers and sailing vessels scarce. 
With all their conflicting statements, I wrapt my 
blanket around me, and was soon insensible to 
them, the fleas, mosquitoes and everything else. 



42 Notes on Land and Sea 

MAY 28th. Up early hurrying our packers off, 
but all to no purpose, as they had their own way 
of doing business, and were determined to follow 
it, so thinking some hard things about them (if 
I didn't say them) I took a seat and waited pa- 
tiently until they were ready, when we com- 
menced our day's journey. Some of my company 
had started early to have some breakfast pre- 
pared for us, the first chance which I found and 
partook of about 11 A.M. Our roads and the 
country about us as yesterday, only more so, 

rough, rugged and crooked rocky, hilly and 

mountainous. The roads were cut through the 
mountains many long years ago by the Spanish 
conquerors of the country, and at that time must 
have been an immense undertaking, occupying 
weeks, months and even years. The cuts and hol- 
lows are paved with round stones, which are now 
loose and rolling, rendering travelling o'er them 
both difficult and dangerous. The woods were 
vocal with the songs of birds, many of them 
possessing rare and beautiful plumage. Lizards 
were numerous, and some of large size, which the 
natives are very fond of, considering them great 
delicacies. We were seldom out ;iof sight of 
passengers, the road being literally lined with 
them bound for the Eldorado. Many were re- 
turning from Panama, who had seen enough of 
the elephant, and were satisfied, as they said to 



Notes on Land and Sea 43 

go home, and let well enough alone ; while others 
were strapped and were seeking employment, to 
sustain life until a lucky breeze should waft them 
home. Stopping occasionally to get aqua, we 
continued on until about i P.M. when, our guides, 
suddenly halted and commenced unpacking, which 
they did, our entreaties and threats to the con- 
trary. Finding that we had to yield I ate a 
snack, sought a shade and enjoyed a sound sleep 
for a few hours. By sundown our company had 
increased considerable, many stopping here to 
spend the night. Saw a goodly number of the 
natives, heavy laden, packing machinery over on 
their heads, backs and shoulders. For supper 
we had a mess, the name of which I never found 
out; after which we spent an hour or so in talk- 
ing of the past, present and future; then settling 
ourselves down under a shanty, 10 by 12, in 
which there were eight white folks, 4 senoritas, 
as many men (our packers) one-half dozen mu- 
chachos, some pigs, dogs, chickens and a legion 
of fleas, we attempted to sleep, and which we 
finally accomplished from sheer exhaustion, fight- 
ing the mosquitoes and fleas. 
MAY 29th. Arose this morning unrefreshed and 
partook of a cup of good coffee, which a fellow 
traveller, or rather a woman traveller made for 
us. Our caravan being in readiness, we took up 
the line of march. This was my day for going 



44 Notes on Land and Sea 

ahead, which I did in company with R — stop- 
ping occasionally to water and rest our parched 
throats and weary limbs. The country changing 
some little in geological appearance as we ap- 
proached the Pacific. Saw many tropical fruits 
growing in rich and negligent profusion; oranges, 
dates, pineapples etc. Resting on the top of a 
high hill about lo, the towers of Panama were in 
plain view. While resting here in the shade 
nearly sans everything, a priest in his long black 
robes passed by buttoned up to the chin, walking 
as if for a sweat or a wager. Starting again we 
wound around the hills until we entered the su- 
burbs of Panama, consisting of remnants of old 
walls, roofless, dilapidated and tenantless houses. 
The road for a few miles out from Panama is 
wide and in good condition, paved and McAdam- 
ized. To the left on entering is seen in the dis- 
tance a few of the ruins of ancient Panama. We 
saw many of the "Charran" passengers who had 
beaten us, and many others with their white tents 
camped in the environs of the City. Halting until 
our baggage came up we pushed on through the 
crowds of Americans, natives, dogs and children 
until we came to the market Plaza, when we called 
a consultation as to further proceedings. I stop- 
ped to see Wilson who was very sick with the 
Panama fever, and then proceeded into the City, 
which we entered by the Gorgona or Cruces gate. 



Notes on Land and Sea 45 

composed of heavy stone work forming an arch 
supporting a cupola in which hangs the Alarum 
bell all surrounded by a moat, now filled with the 
crumbling ruins of the walls and houses. Pro- 
ceeding to the New England Hotel, we unpacked 
our caravans, paid off our guides and proceeded 
to make ourselves as comfortable as possible, with 
soap, water and clean raiment, as our tramping 
days were over for a season. Had our friends 
"tu hum" seen us before this process was com- 
plete, they would scarce have known us, so 
changed were we with long beards full of dirt, 
check shirts that looked as if they and water 
had never become acquainted, and sun burnt 
phizes. In fact we were a nice looking set for 
a small tea party. After satisfying the body 
corporal we sauntered out to see the town, its 
curiosities, and to make some inquiries about our 
trip to California. We found first that the place 
was crowded with travellers to the land of Gold, 
there being about 2500 or 3000 waiting for 
conveyance to leave in. Secondly, we found that 
the most extravagant prices were asked for tickets 
on the Steamers. First and second cabin tickets 
selling from $600 to $1000 and steerage from 
3 to $500. Speculators were making money by 
these means, and the owners of the steamers and 
vessels were said to be through their agents the 
principal men engaged in the business. We found 



46 Notes on Land and Sea 

3rdly that several sailing vessels were up for San 
Francisco, and after consulting together we found 
that from the state of our finances, it was ad- 
visable for us to go on a sailer; first, because 
what steamers were there were full, and sec- 
ondly, it was uncertain when those coming round 
the Horn would be in, and thirdly, the sailing 
vessels' prices agreed with our purses' weight best, 
and so we concluded to try a sail vessel, tho we 
were awful tired of the C — on the Gulf. We 
returned to supper soon after which we sought 
our cots, and after enduring a serenade from the 
mosquitoes for several hours, fell asleep. 
MAY 30th. Half sick this morning but felt 
better after breakfast. Walked out to W and 
found him very bad, high fever and nearly con- 
stant delirium, brought on by excessive exercise 
in crossing the Isthmus, and exposure to the burn- 
ing rays of a tropical sun. Prescribed and left 
him. Returning to town engaged a room from 
a Spaniard and moved our effects Into it; the 
N. E. hotel being too filthy and boisterous to suit 
us; the landlord drank and quarrelling all the 
time. Feeling quite unwell I drew my cot be- 
tween the doors to catch what air was passing 
and laid me down to rest. The bells of all the 
churches kept up an Incessant ringing, this being 
the day for holding the festival of "Corpus 
Christi." There was a large procession headed 



Notes on Land and Sea 47 

by the Priests over whose heads was carried a 
silken canopy, supported on long silver rods ; then 
came the "young angels," children decked out with 
the finest fabrics and tinsel, with huge wings glit- 
tering in the sun. Then came the candle bearers 
with huge silver candlesticks and long wax can- 
dles giving forth a faint blaze in the noonday 
sun. Then came the rag end and bob tail, mak- 
ing a procession of considerable extent and show. 
Upon whatever street the procession entered the 
natives might be seen on their knees with un- 
covered heads, while the American would stop 
and respectfully raise his beaver until the priestly 
array passed by. The churches are numerous, 
but only a few appeared to be used at present, 
the balance falling into decay and ruin. The 
show lasted for several hours, performing some 
ceremony at all the principal cathedrals. In the 
afternoon the other three boys went out to the 
office of the French ship "Cachalot" and pur- 
chased tickets for themselves and Mr. C — going 
on the bark "Sarah." The "Cachalot" is a large 
ship and very filthy; to sail on the 5th June. 
Tickets $150.00. Walking out I saw some of 
the priests who were officiating this morning go- 
ing to the cock pit with a chicken under each arm, 
decked off in gaudy colors and long, sharp blade 
like gaffs, all, Saint and sinner hurrying on to the 
scene of their festive rejoicing — cock-fighting — in 



48 Notes on Land and Sea 

which brutal sport they take great delight. The 
Priests bet higher, swear louder and yell more 
than any others, manifesting great joy or anger 
at the success or defeat of their favorites. In- 
deed gambling of every species prevails; a priest 
in his robe sometimes being seen on the street 
playing cards. 

MAY 31st. Scarce able to walk this morn- 
ing. Symptoms of the Panama fever quite prom- 
inent, and of which disease numbers of Ameri- 
cans are dying, principally northern men. A great 
cause of so much sickness is too free indulgence 
in the tropical fruits, intemperance and exposure 
to the burning rays of a tropical sun. The so- 
called Panama fever, need not be dreaded if a 
person is temperate, both in diet and drink. A 
glass of Porter ale or claret if necessary, which 
I believe is not often the case, nothing stronger 
can be of any advantage, and may do harm. Saw 
a man today who was in the melee which oc- 
cured here a few days ago. A native boy stole 
something from an American, and was taken by 
them into custody. The boy being alarmed and 
not understanding them, as to what would be done 
to him, told some of his friends that the Ameri- 
cans were going to hang him, which made them 
attempt a rescue, and from a really small affair 
at first quite a riot was created. The natives 
were all enraged and arming themselves with all 



Notes on Land and Sea 49 

manner of murderous weapons rushed on the 
Americans, who with a few guns and Colts re- 
volvers, Bowie knives and dirks defended them- 
selves, with true Yankee courage. -The tumult 
was not quelled until some 2 or 3 Americans and 
some 4 or 5 natives were killed, when by the com- 
bined exertion of the American Consul and the 
Governor, quiet was restored; but for several 
days after the sullen and gloomy brow of the 
Spaniards told plainly that a volcano was slum- 
bering beneath their smooth exterior, while the 
Americans' watchful eye, guarded manner, told 
as plainly that a second outbreak would be at- 
tended with more direful consequences then the 
first. About noon every day a Muchacho (boy) 
comes to our room with rice nicely boiled and 
seasoned with spices, sugar, etc. This is our 
lunch and is much preferable in this climate to 
meats, either salt or fresh, to a person not ac- 
climated and not labouring. The church bell go- 
ing all day. Walking out in the afternoon I met 
some good looking females. They are generally 
finely formed and with the true principle of 
woman's love for show and parade, decked them- 
selves out in gaudy attire and ornaments. We fre- 
quently see them with a large amount of jewelry 
on their persons, gold and silver coin, and hun- 
dreds of dollars being frequently seen around the 
neck of a dark eyed sefiorita. The Priests that 



50 Notes on Land and Sea 

we meet are the best and most intelligent looking 
of the natives, and with their black silk gowns 
and stockings, their queer shaped three-cornered 
and rather soldier-like looking sombreros pre- 
sent quite a strange and unique appearance. 
JUNE 1st. 1850. Feeling better this morn- 
ing, went down to the beach and had a most de- 
lightful bath. I capered about among the break- 
ers, and "played with old oceans' hoary locks" 
for the first time on the western side of N. A. 
Found Wilson some better. Called with Mix to 
see a young Dr. Ringold of Ala., who was pas- 
senger on the bark Susan, which left this port 
57 days ago for San Francisco. When out about 
20 days the Captain became alarmed in regard 
to his supplies, fearing that his passengers might 
suffer before reaching their desired haven. The 
result was insanity — on the Captain's part — 
who finally cut his throat, and threw himself 
overboard, before any person could assist him, 
or prevent the accomplishment of the fatal act. 
The 1st mate then taking command returned to 
this port with nearly half of the crew and pas- 
sengers on the sick list. The Dr. is quite unwell 
and very low spirited, so giving him some advice 
interspersed with anecdotes, and a little medicine, 
left him to the care of his nurse, who is a Spanish 
seiiorita, and in appearance quite devoted to him. 
Examined more particularly today the citizens 



Notes on Land and Sea 51 

and town of Panama. There appear to be but 
few families of the pure Castilian blood in this 
country. Most of them being a mongrel race, 
and are deficient in the higher moral attributes. 
Their separation from old Spain appears to have 
inflicted a death blow on their energies and the 
resources of the country; for since all enterprise 
has languished. Slothful and averse to exertion 
they see nature with a prodigal hand, scattering 
around her rich and precious fruits, which they 
are content to pluck and eat. The country in the 
vicinity of Panama, and nearly all in crossing the 
Isthmus, might with a little well expended labor, 
be made to bloom and bear all the luxuries that 
the people could use, as it is — an uncultivated 
wilderness, it yields sufficient to satisfy them with 
little or no toil. The sudden influx of so many 
strangers for the last few years has put the na- 
tives to their wits' end to supply their require- 
ments, and, of course, has enhanced the value of 
everything in proportionate degrees. Articles 
that were worth rials now command dollars. Of 
the markets here, little that is commendatory can 
be said. All (except the fruits which are numer- 
ous and tempting) have a greasy, hot and dirty 
look, while the half nude native saleswomen look 
as filthy and unattractive as their vendibles. Meat 
beef and pork is cut into thin strips, and sold by 
the yard, while before the Americans came here 



52 Notes on Land and Sea 

calicos and muslins were sold by the pound. We 
see numerous fishes and some oysters, but the 
latter look too soft and milky to tempt my appe- 
tite. Yams similar in appearance tho' more 
farinaceous than ours are substituted and are 
abundant. They grow quite large and I think 
could be successfully cultivated in some of the 
Southern states of the U. S. 

Among all the filth and unattractiveness of 
Panama there are still some places where a per- 
son can retire and enjoy an hour or two of pleas- 
ant forgetfulness. The town is surrounded on 
all sides by a wall, now in many places in ruins, 
yet on the batting which extends out south and 
west it is pleasant of a morning or evening to seat 
oneself against an old cannon and gaze out o'er 
the wide expanse of the deep blue waters, watch- 
ing the myriads of birds as they wheel and circle 
around and above us. The Pelican with his capa- 
cious throat distended to its utmost stretch with 
the finny tribe which they pounce upon sometimes 
burying themselves under the water, and carrying 
off to digest at leisure. The sea's breeze about sun- 
set is delightful and invigorating, and to watch 
the breakers as they come rolling in and see the 
numerous small sails constantly plying from point 
to point and to see the stately ships riding at 
anchor — motionless except with the gentle swell 
of old ocean's heaving bosom, and the long, un- 



Notes on Land and Sea 53 

wieldy looking steamer still as the tomb, were all 
calculated to impress one favourably after escap- 
ing the heat of a tropical sun, and the "noise and 
confusion" of the mixed City of Panama. Some 
bold rocky islands lay off from one-half to one or 
two miles from the City, and one towering bold 
old fellow looked as if he was standing sentry to 
guard the town from the approach of an enemy 
in that direction. Requiescat in pace — old Fel. 
JUNE 2nd. Sunday — they tell me — but from 
the appearance of things it resembles that day 
less than ever I saw before. Gambling houses 
(and they are numerous) are crowded more to- 
day than any other, from the fact that the 
natives consider it only a holiday, and conse- 
quently have more gambling and fandangoes on 
this day than any other, while a great many 
Americans — going upon the motto of doing like 
Romans and Buffalos when they are in Rome or 
Buffalo, are even worse than the natives. Met 
with Major P. of Tennessee, who is on his way 
to the golden land with some darkies to dig out 
his pile. Hope he may be successful. The Major 
goes on the bark Sarah. Found some tolerable 
good water today at an old convent by going to 
a window and knocking. Someone inside gave a 
grunt, to signify you were heard, then by plac- 
ing your mouth to a hole, say "aqua" ; a wheel 
would soon turn and a small stone jar would be 



54 Notes on Land and Sea 

placed before you. Drink and be off for no en- 
treaty would procure you a sight of the givers or 
draw them into a conversation. Queer wasn't it? 
Entered a cafe kept by a good looking senorita 
and obtained some of the best coffee I had found 
in the place. Church bells kept up an incessant 
ringing all day, and if such a thing could be done, 
these people would come as nigh ringing them- 
selves into heaven as any other I ever met with. 
But if the Protestant religion be the correct one, 
they are as far from the true route to the new Jeru- 
salem, as some of us sinners who make no pre- 
tensions to Christianity. And in fact for their 
abominable practices the fons et or'igo, of the 
Catholic church has long ceased to regard them 
as part and parcel of the true Roman faith. Thus 
thrown off by the parent church, and governed 
and conducted by a corrupt and designing priest- 
hood, no wonder we should be excited in our mind 
at their — to us — numerous and glaring inconsist- 
encies and unholy practices. Their religion like 
their country seems old and appears to be gradu- 
ally gliding away from them. In fact the im- 
press of decay is visibly marked on all I have yet 
seen belonging to this country. The present City 
of Panama, surrounded on all sides by its wall 
and moat is gradually falling under the gnawing 
and relentless tooth of time, and without a re- 
vivifying influence may be expected ere many years 



Notes on Land and Sea 55 

to be a mass of ruins, like the ancient City of 
Panama, which stands some 6 or 8 miles from the 
site of the present City. That was once a flour- 
ishing place, but In the 17th century Morgan the 
celebrated Irish pirate appeared before It, and 
slaying and driving Its Inhabitants before him 
plundered and then burned the City. A few crum- 
bling ruins alone and solitary remaining to tell its 
locality and sad fate. The citizens who escaped 
the destroyer's hand, fled to the hills and moun- 
tains, and when all was quiet ventured forth to 
the place where I now write from, and com- 
menced to build another town and other houses, 
preferring to commence anew in a strange place, 
rather than return to witness the desolation of 
their once thriving and peaceful homes. In proc- 
ess of time the Spanish government extended to 
them a helping hand, and built the present City, 
though from its antiquated appearance it might 
have been built before the flood. There are some 
churches whose dilapidated appearance is quite 
venerable. The walls, towers and belfry covered 
with ivy and moss and evergreen plants look 
quite picturesque, and though service of some 
kind is performed every day, yet, so numerous 
are the cathedrals that many are never used, and 
are consequently going the way of all the 
"y-earth." The streets are mostly paved, some 
with flat — others with round stones, a duty that 



^6 Notes on Land and Sea 

is performed by the chain-gangs, and are gen- 
erally narrow. The pavements are narrow barely 
admitting two abreast to walk together. The 
houses are principally of stone covered with tile, 
and nearly all have a veranda stretching over the 
narrow footway, which adds to the sombre ap- 
pearance of the place, though they are a pleasant 
refuge from the heat of the noon-day sun, and 
afford a slight but appreciable shelter to the 
pedestrian from the drenching rains which from 
May or June until December deluge the land. The 
rainy season is even now on hand and every day 
we have heavy showers, alternated with the hot- 
test sun ever felt. Numbers of the houses are now 
occupied by Americans, some as stores, but the ma- 
jority as hotels and restaurants, while not a few, 
are used as gambling houses, or in fashionable 
parlance — Saloons — for drinking and playing. 
Some of the houses are undergoing repairs, pre- 
paratory to being occupied as business places by 
the Yankees, as the natives call all from the U. S. 
The citizens from the City wound up their holiday 
— Sunday as it is — by a grand chicken fight, such 
a scene. The priests were foremost and loudest 
in the sport and noise, while the men, women and 
children, were to me, as so many geese. To wind 
up the day complete, as one of noise and con- 
fusion, mine auditory apparatus was saluted about 
bedtime with the most horrid clatter I ever heard. 



Notes on Land and Sea 57 

Upon enquiring the cause of such a noisy effect, 
it turned out to be a serenade by the Americans, 
Germans, etc., for a new married couple. It ap- 
pears that a German enroute for California met 
a senorita in Panama who had a pile sufficient to 
keep herself and someone else from want, during 
life, and fancying the Dutchman, made it known. 
Upon this hint, he spake and after a short court- 
ship married her, when some of his acquaintances 
getting wind of it concluded to serenade them with 
horns, pans and drums and other noisy instru- 
ments. The musicians could only be stopped by 
the promise of $ioo, when all became quiet, and 
I soon was in the land of dreams. 
JUNE 3rd. Awoke this morning and found it 
raining very hard, and continued on until noon, 
when old Sol showed himself in a way that made 
shade preferable. Quite a number of passengers 
arrived in town today, and the cry is "still they 
come." This constant rush to the land of gold, 
is to the ticket speculators here a real harvest, 
and they profit by it, buying all the tickets on a 
steamer as soon as the office is opened, and retail- 
ing them to newcomers at a most exorbitant pre- 
mium. Many who arrived here this season are 
unprepared to pay these prices, and some of them 
start back home, while others in the vain hope of 
doubling their money go to a gambling house and 
lose all, thus rendering themselves unable to go 



58 Notes on Land and Sea 

or even return, until they can make a raise, either 
in the way by which they lost, or by working, 
wages ranging high for all sorts of labor. The 
natives do but little work, except the packing, pre- 
ferring to loll about, smoke, gamble, etc. Saw 
W. this afternoon — better, tho' very feeble. Re- 
turning I met the Governor's two daughters on 
horseback accompanied by one of the G. staff. 
The ladies were fairer and better looking than 
any I had seen on the Isthmus, and with their 
neat riding dresses and bewitching little Panama 
hats, looked very pretty, decidedly pretty, and I 
thought if ever I committed matrimony with a 
senorita, she must be pretty — fair — rich and a 
good rider, like the daughters of His Excellency, 
the Governor of Panama. Called to see Dr. R. 
who was worse, slight delirium and some fever. 
Prescribed for him and left him in the hands of his 
nurse, who appears to be very kind and devoted. 
If I should be so unfortunate as to be sick, wish I 
may have as good and tender a nurse as she is, tho' 
they can talk together but little, yet, she is ever 
ready and willing to wait on him and administer 
those thousand little attentions which woman 
alone is capable of doing. 

" Pain and anguish wring the brow 
A ministering angel thou." 



Notes on Land and Sea 59 

Took coffee with my kind hostess and returned 
to my room, when I met Capt E, who came from 
N. O. The Captain is a clever Tar and is going 
up on the Bark Lota. Saw quite a crowd follow 
a man and two ladies horseback to the Panama 
exchange, and going there myself saw the cele- 
brated Tom Hyer. His arrival appeared to create 
considerable excitement among some of the folk, 
but for my part I could see nothing very attractive 
in him. He is a large stout looking man and from 
appearances could floor a fellow, and drink a 
pint of whiskey as soon as the next one. As this 
was my last day in Panama, packed up my traps 
in travelling order, and then sought my cot, 
tired of the place and its inhabitants. 
JUNE 4th. Learned this morning that we 
would not get off before tomorrow, so walked 
down to see my coffee woman, got some very good 
coffee, toast and eggs; then went out to see W. 
found him improving and more cheerful than he 
had ever been in some time. C. bid us adieu, also 
Man and P. and went on board the bark Sarah. 
Dr. R. about the same as yesterday, so I sat down 
by him, and talked to him of his home friends and 
relatives, of his mother, father, brothers and 
sisters. Gave him a little medicine, and a good 
deal of advice, cheered his drooping spirits until 
he seemed better, and then left him, with the hope 



6o Notes on Land and Sea 

of meeting him in the Eldorado of the West. Con- 
siderable sickness among the emigrants, and more 
especially among those from the north and east, 
and every day or so consigns some poor fellow to 
old mother earth, who a few short days ago had 
left his family and friends in the flush of health 
and strength, with golden anticipations for the 
next few months or mayhap years to come. "Man 
proposes, but God disposes," and this should 
teach us "There's a divinity shapes our ends, 
rough hew them how we will." 

Visited some more of the old churches today, 
and though they have a rough unseemly exterior 
they are internally decorated with paintings, 
drapes, gold and silver, that gives an imposing 
appearance upon first entering them. The booths, 
bazaars, shops, hotels and gambling saloons, all 
busy in their various ways. Saw some sefioras 
beating something, as it appeared to me most un- 
mercifully, but going to them found them washing 
clothes, which they did by first wetting them, then 
throwing them on the rocks, either stamped them 
with their feet or mashed them with clubs, stones, 
etc. The sight caused me a sigh as I thought of 
the fate of some of my buttons, having given out 
some washing to be done the day before. N. C. 
and so ended another day. 

JUNE 5 th. After breakfasting we com- 
menced the preparation of going on board, but 



Notes on Land and Sea 6i 

before starting purchased some tin plates, knives, 
forks, spoons, etc., tin pans, etc., as we learned 
that every one was to furnish his own eating 
utensils. So laying in the above articles with a 
box of claret, some oranges, limes, sugar, tea and 
other necessary articles for one's health and con- 
venience on ship board, we bid adieu for a time 
to terra firma, and jumping into a sail boat, we 
were soon alongside of the ship Cachalot. And 
here what a scene — trunks, boxes, carpet bags — 
indiscriminately piled or scattered about o'er deck 
in confusion beautiful to behold, while each one in- 
tent on securing his own, would occasionally pro- 
duce a collision that called forth oaths in abund- 
ance. I and my friends secured our bunks and 
stowed away our luggage then taking a position 
where we could see as well as hear what was going 
on enjoyed a few hearty laughs, unmindful of, and 
uncaring for all the discomforts which appear- 
ances told would be our fate for our uncertain sea 
voyage. 

As the dinner hour approached and feeling 
kinder voracious I drew out the "bill of fare" 
which we had procured at the office in Panama, 
read it over. It was as follows : 

Sunday: Beef, potatoes and pudding. 

Monday: Pork, beans, rice and molasses. 

Tues'y: Beef, pork and potatoes. 

Wed'y: Ham, pork and beans. 



62 Notes on Land and Sea 

Thur'y: Beef, rice and molasses. 

Fri'y: Pork, beans and potatoes. 

Sat'y: Beef, rice and molasses. 

This with coffee in the morning, tea in the 
evening, with plenty of good bread, which the 
agent assured us we should have, presented a 
tolerable bill of fare for the voyage, as we were 
all well aware that good provender was scarce on 
this side of this Isthmus. But oh ! when the dinner 
hour arrived, we were doomed to the saddest dis- 
appointment we had yet experienced. The ist 
cook a Peruvian — was of all things filthy, the 
filthiest. There was no such thing as a table, in 
lieu of which he used the deck, where with one 
hand he held a chunk of meat down and with the 
other cut off pieces as each one called for it. The 
potatoes were scattered around him, and in 
the rush, noise and confusion were pretty well 
mashed and richly seasoned with dirt. The bread 
was hard and old, tho' rich, as we soon found 
upon breaking it, there appearing any quantity 
of nice looking fat worms and bugs. For that 
meal I had but little relish, and Shakespeare's 
lines of: 

" The world is a well furnished table 
Where guests are promiscuously set 
Where all fare as well as they are able 
And scramble for what they can get," 



Notes on Land and Sea 63 

appeared to me to be true in one respect, the 
scrambling part; and not so true in the other — 
the well furnished table part. No one who ever 
saw such a scene can form any idea of it, and 
as I would wish never to see such again I'll let 
the matter be for the present. The passengers 
number about 165 — five of whom are females. 
One of whom has a bunk close alongside, ha, ha. 
We have men from nearly every state in the 
union, while some are from different parts of 
Europe, Asia, Africa and South America, and 
during the hurry and bustle preparatory to start- 
ing many were the strange sounds that sounded 
on my Tympanum. Oh ! for oblivion until this 
voyage be over. For supper we had tea, made 
on the Homeopathic principle, one leaf of the herb 
to a pint of water, and that sweetened with 
molasses, and some of the pork that we ought to 
have eaten at dinner. Many were the hard things 
said to the cook and steward, while the Captain 
came in for no small share of huge round oaths. 
Complaints were loud and bitter, and the Captain 
was so frightened at the savage aspect of some of 
the passengers that he scarcely knew what to do. 
The C — was a Frenchman, the two mates too, 
while the crew consisted of sailors from nearly all 
countries, and as he (Capt.) could not under- 
stand the American language, but saw from the 
savage countenances and violent gesticulations of 



64 Notes on Land and Sea 

the passengers that something was wrong, it was 
laughable to behold his troubled looking Phiz. 
After promising better in future, he gave orders 
for getting under way, which diverted the minds 
of all from the scenes just exhibited. The anchor 
was hauled in with a heave, oh, he; the sails un- 
furled and once more we were afloat upon the 
briny deep. And as the lights from the City 
gradually receded from view, and the shores be- 
came indistinct I could not help feeling that prob- 
ably some on board would never again see land. 
Who it would be was to us unrevealed, but the 
thought was a sad one, that some one of us had 
probably taken the last long lingering look upon 
our mother earth. Shaking off these feelings I 
fell to thinking of home, then of the scenes 
through which I had lately passed, and last upon 
my present condition, until the most of the pas- 
sengers had retired, and left me alone. Our sleep- 
ing apartment consisted of near the whole of the 
ship between decks with a row of shelves on each 
side, and two rows in the middle of double ones. 
Going down it appeared that everybody was talk- 
ing at the same time, the air was close and suffo- 
cating; so taking my blanket went up on deck and 
stretched myself out on the hatch covering to 
sleep, which was sound, notwithstanding the un- 
comfortableness of my situation, until a rain came 
on and drove me below, where I finished the night 



Notes on Land and Sea 65 

in anything but a comfortable way, and so ended 
the first night on the Pacific Ocean. 
THURSDAY, JUNE 6th. Was called up be- 
fore day to see a passenger W — from Wilson 
County, Tenn., who was very sick. Severe at- 
tacks of Cholera Morbus. Gave him medicine 
and attention until he was relieved. With day- 
light up came the passengers, and the old ship 
soon presented a lively scene, all hands preparing 
for breakfast, at least all that were not sick; and 
as the sea was smooth and all had given it a 
trial before very few were seasick. At length 
breakfast was announced by ringing the ship's 
bell. Coffee bad, sugar dirty and bread wormy, 
constituted our morning meal. The complaints 
of the passengers was made known to the Cap- 
tain, who being slightly alarmed at their angry 
countenances promised a revision of the culinary 
department and better fare in future. Nothing 
of note occurred until dinner, when the same scene 
as yesterday was enacted o'er again. Mess beef 
half cooked, rice boiled with the husk on it, and 
Isthmus made molasses, with dirt, gravel and 
sticks in it, besides some other curious looking 
things, which I did not exactly understand. As 
the natives would say — Mucho Malo Como. 

The sun was very hot about noon, but towards 
evening the wind freshened up, and our old ship 
exhibited the only good quality we had seen about 



66 Notes on Land and Sea 

her, sailing well. Course today S. W. although 
San Francisco is N. W. from Panama; but sail- 
ing vessels usually run down about looo miles in 
that direction before pointing to the Eldorado, 
in order to take advantage of the trade winds. 
Saw a steamship on the starboard, but too far oft 
to make her out. Heard some passengers talk- 
ing about California and wishing themselves 
there, and judging from the serious countenances 
around me a good many were thinking of the 
same. The supper was a repetition of the night 
before, which again produced curses bitter, loud 
and deep. M. threw his cup at the Captain and 
threatened to throw him overboard if he gave us 
any more such stuft. The scene was a rich one, 
passengers hungry and infuriated, brandishing 
cups, plates knives, spoons, etc., while the Cap- 
tain not understanding a word of our language, 
thought that every moment would be his last. Pro- 
curing an interpreter, he proposed to employ a 
new set of cooks, which pacified the noisy ones 
and all was soon quiet on board. 
JUNE 7th. Arose at seven unrefreshed hav- 
ing slept but little down below last night, on ac- 
count of the heat and confined air, being as dis- 
agreeable as it was new. Eight bells and break- 
fast, which tho' some better was yet very unpal- 
atable. In order to better things the passengers 
divided themselves off into messes of 10 each, and 



Notes on Land and Sea 6"] 

as a good deal of grumbling was still going on, 
it was proposed and agreed to have a meeting of 
the passengers, and acquaint the Captain with the 
object of it. Each mess then instructed one of 
their number what they wished the Captain to do. 
Our mess was composed of us four Shelbyvillians 
— B. S. M. & B. from Mobile, Dr. W. and the 
Rev. Mr. C. from East Tennessee, and knowing 
that a Methodist Preacher always lived on the 
best — provided always they can get it — we ap- 
pointed the Rev. Mr. C. head of our mess to 
represent us in the indignation meeting. The 
heads of messes then met, organized, appointed a 
chairman and secretary, and a subcommittee to 
draft a set of resolutions. The Committee re- 
ported that two of each mess should draw prov- 
ender for the balance at each meal, and that the 
Captain should employ Americans to cook for us. 
The report was read to the assembled multitude 
on deck who concurred therein and was then read 
to the Captain who promised compliance on his 
part. The resolutions expressed in mild but firm 
language, our rights as passengers regarding 
cooking, provisions, meal hours and privileges 
generally as passengers. 

Made some acquantances today and had a long 
talk about our future movements in the battle of 
life. Our course S. W. ? Wind light, sun hot. 
Some of the passengers sea sick, and some one or 



6s Notes on Land and Sea 

two with the Panama fever. Notice stuck up 
by Captain that water would be measured out to 
us as a report had reached his ears that some of 
the passengers were using it for washing pur- 
poses that it was not intended for. The water is 
getting very bad, thick as honey and very sulph- 
urous in odor. The committee on grievances cor- 
rected this rumor and nothing more was said or 
done about water. The weather foul and misty, 
which with the number of passengers on board 
makes our vessel more like a pig pen than a place 
for human beings, and if some of us are not sick 
it will not be for the want of a cause. Slept on 
deck until rain drove me down below. 
JUNE 8th. Raining this morning outrageous, 
and our vessel more like a hog pen than ever. 
Our breakfast under the management of new 
cooks was some better, tho' yet worse than any 
person not a savage would give his servants. 
Broke our fast in the rain, vastly unpleasant. 
Wind fitful through the day. Sail on the larboard 
bow. Passengers all quiet and passing away the 
time as well as possible. Course the same, and go- 
ing slowly. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 9th. After rolling and toss- 
ing all night, got up this morning and found it 
raining harder than ever. But as a man can get 
used to almost anything, we partook of breakfast 
in the rain with a better grace than the day be- 



Notes on Land and Sea 69 

fore. The wind was fitful and gusty, blew my 
Panama hat off, and away it went dancing on the 
waters. I was sorry and almost mad enough to 
cuss, but don't recollect whether I did or not. The 
grievance committee requested the Captain to em- 
ploy a new cook, which he did. One of them that 
was employed the day before being reported drunk 
and unfit for duty. There being two preachers 
on board we all congregated for service, but just 
as the minister was about commencing there came 
a squall, followed by a drenching rain that broke 
up the meeting. Course S. W. Some more sick- 
ness on board, fevers principally. About sunset 
saw a small island, called Valpillo. 
JUNE loth. Going on deck this morning 
found the old "Cachalot" going gallantly a N. W. 
course. For breakfast we had in addition to 
the usual fare some fresh pork boiled, about half 
done. Some of our mess found, when nobody 
was looking at them, some potatoes, then borrow- 
ing a frying pan cooked them and the pork to- 
gether, which was decidedly the best meal we had 
eaten on the ship. For the preservation of health 
we cleaned the ship between decks, the Captain, 

D him, saying that he would not have it 

done. With a good wind our hopes of a short 
trip were good, and some bets were offered that 
the trip would be made Inside of 40 days. Pat- 
sengers variously occupied, reading, talking, play- 



^o Notes on Land and Sea 

ing cards, washing, mending etc. New cook has 
improved our fare considerably, and all appear to 
be getting along finely, and so closes the day. 
JUNE nth. Awoke this morning and found 
the rain descending, the wind blowing and our 
old ship ploughing through the deep at the rate 
of 9 or 10 knots an hour. At breakfast which was 
taken in the rain the usual fare and scene was 
presented. Our bill of fare when examined pre- 
sented a tolerable good appearance, but we never 
drew but one thing at a time ; for instance, we got 
the meat in the morning to last us all day, then 
at noon we drew the potatoes or beans, then at 
supper we got rice and molasses; each on the 
days appointed for such delicacies. The only ex- 
ception to this is the fresh meat contained in the 
bread, for that we get at every meal. The rain 
and wind continued through the day, so that we 
travelled fine if It was disagreable. Night cooler 
and slept better. 

JUNE 1 2th. This morning on going on deck 
found old Sol just emerging from his watery pil- 
low, bright and beautiful. We made a glorious 
run through the past night, but with the rising sun 
the wind died away, and left us rolling about on 
old ocean's bosom. This being the day set for eat- 
ing ham our appetites were keen and expectations 
high for a good feast, but for some cause they 
were not served out. This caused some grum- 



Notes on Land and Sea 71 

bling but learning that it was an oversight on the 
steward's part, and that they would come to- 
morrow all was soon quiet. Sea calm with count- 
less numbers of Dolphins playing around us. For 
dinner we had what was called bean soup, and for 
dessert — a chunk of a fight between one of our 
mess and W. of S. county Tennessee. Vinegar 
was said to be the cause of the fracas. No damage 
done, but a large amount of talking and some tall 
swearing. The Captain acted as pacificator, and 
liked to have got himself whipped. The tumult 
soon dwindled down to a calm, and all went on 
as usual. N. N. W. course, winds light and sea 
smooth. 

JUNE 13th. Felt very tired and uncomfort- 
able this morning from sleeping on a very narrow 
plank. Sun rose clear and red, wind fair, course 
S. W. The long looked for and much wished for 
ham made its appearance, served up raw, but hav- 
ing some cooking utensils we made a hearty break- 
fast from it. After eating, Ben and myself pre- 
pared to wash dishes, this being our day for such 
business. With salt water and a small, very 
small rag, we made them worse than before, for 
salt water and grease will have nothing to do 
with each other. In some instances appearances 
go a great ways, and it was true literally in this 
case. So with a promise of thorough cleansing 
when we got on dirt we set them aside. Made a 



72 Notes on Land and Sea 

fair run through the day, and as the sun went 
down, the young Queen of Night arose and gave 
us a little light to guide us on o'er the vast deep. 
I stretched myself on deck and watched the moon 
as she gently sank into old ocean's bosom, leav- 
ing her attendants, a host of bright stars to 
keep watch through the silent hours of the night. 
There is something grand on shipboard at night, 
when the hum of voices is silent, and nought is 
heard but the boiling waters around the bow of 
the vessel, as she dashed through the briny deep. 
With such music ringing in my ears I fell asleep. 
JUNE 14th. Clear morning, a fine breeze, and 
our vessel going fine W.S.W. Passengers all are 
quiet. Some card playing going on, but very little 
gambling. Days and nights some cooler than 
when we started, as we leave the sun north of us 
more and more every hour, sailing our present 
direction S.W. Today at noon we were near the 
equator. The moon gave us a little more light, 
and then retired early to rest. The sea around 
the bows of the ship is truly beautiful at night, 
the phosphorescent appearance being very plain. 
Rolled my blanket around me and slept on a hen 
coop. 

JUNE 15th. Cloudy morning, but a stiff breeze 
sending the old Cachalot through the water at 
a rate of 10 knots an hour. The wind coming 
quartering makes her roll over to one side con- 



Notes on Land and Sea 73 

siderable, rendering locomotion extremely difficult, 
and causing frequent tumblings. At noon about 
the equatorial line, the GoUipajos Islands, bear- 
ing E.N.E. Occasionally a huge wave would 
leap over the sides, and give all in its way a nice 
shower bath. Two more hogs killed today. 
Night found us running finely. 
SUNDAY, JUNE i6th. Made a fine run last 
night, and this morning finds us careening onward 
at a spanking rate, a flowing sea and a wind 
that follows fast. Boiled hog for breakfast and 
nothing else. (Take my hat Ben the one that 
went overboard the other day.) 11 o'clock all 
assembled to hear preaching by the Rev. Geo. 
Home. Text "Ask and ye shall receive ; Seek 
and ye shall find; Knock and it shall be opened 
unto you." This don't hold good in a carnal 
sense, for we have asked for better grub, but 
don't receive it. A game of cards was going on 

at the same time of preaching down below — 

(Wicked set of fellows on this boat.) 

Dinner over the Rev. Mr. Cunningham gave 
us another sermon, but as I was taking a siesta 
in a hammock it was unheeded by me. Whilst 
dispatching our supper a squall and rain came up, 
and hurried us to our roost, where we passed a 
most unpleasant night. The wind blew very hard 
and the waves were running high, together with 
the straining and creaking of the old ships timbers, 



74 Notes on Land and Sea 

caused many to pass a sleepless and uncomfortable 
night. 

JUNE 17th. Cloudy with rain occasionally, wind 
blowing about a 10 knot breeze, and the old ship 
so much on her side that locomotion is rather diffi- 
cult. Saw some fall and spill their breakfast on 
the decks which are anything but clean. Noon 
finds us running fine, nearly due west. With night 
came another squall and rain which makes our 
situation more unpleasant, as all have to stay 
down to keep dry. After rolling and tossing half 
the night, I finally got up a sleep and dreamed of 

and home. 

JUNE 1 8th. Fine clear morning, wind fresh 
and sea foaming and boiling around us — like — 
like — like the sea and nothing else. While scrib- 
bling away at these nothings, a huge sea leaped 
over the bulwarks, and washed my pen, ink and 
paper all away from me. I got gloriously wet, but 
scrambling around soon found my material, and 
enjoyed a few hearty laughs at the appearance of 
some of the others, who also received a sprinkling. 
Course W. by S. Sea rough, occasionally com- 
ing over the sides to give us a bath. Supped on 
tea and Irish potatoes. Then came night, which 
brings quiet, if not rest on the old ship. Whale. 
JUNE 19th. Arose with an uncomfortable 
headache, and swallowed some medicine and a 
light breakfast. Wind blowing finely and our 



Notes on Land and Sea 75 

old ship groaning and creaking under her load of 
canvas, but dashing thro the water like a mad- 
dened creature. Porpoises by the thousands play- 
ing around us all the morning. Ham for dinner 
which puts all who are able to eat in a good hu- 
mor. Several passengers sick; two of our mess 
—Dr. W. and Rev. Mr. C. A Col. Crews of 
Ga. is very sick with Panama fever, so says Dr. 
Young, ship surgeon. The rush to draw provi- 
sions is as great as ever when the bell rings, and 
then to see us all squatted about over the vessel 
in every conceivable place and position, is one of 
the richest sights imaginable — on hog pens, 
chicken coops etc. Made a fine run through the 
day, and had a very dark night, but as there is 
no danger of snags we run all night without tying 
up. 

JUNE 20th. Fine morning — warm and pleas- 
ant, with just breeze enough to keep the sail full. 
Saw a sail, but did not learn from whence she came 
nor whither she goeth, so with a clear sky and a 
deep blue sea we passed each other and soon were 
out of sight. Plenty of room here to pass, none 
of your jostling and crowding like some of the 
thoroughfares on terra firma. After breakfast 
was over — the eating utensils washed and put 
away, I tried my hand at washing clothes for the 
first time, and with cold salt water I made but 
slow progress in removing the earth. I rubbed 



76 Notes on Land and Sea 

away for a considerable time and at last was 
forced to quit as the cuticle of my hands showed 
signs of being removed before the garments would 
part with the grease and dirt which had collected 
on them. So with a rinse and squeeze I hung them 
in the rigging to dry, vowing that if ever this 
hombre got back to the white settlements, he 
would immediately unite with some feminine and 
let her attend to all such domestic affairs. 

In the afternoon saw two sails, they hoisted 
their colors, when our Captain ran up the tricolor 
of old France. More new cases of sickness, 
comes on with a chill then comes fever, nausea, 
headache and alarming debility. The treatment 
is to evacuate the stomach when necessary, then 
Mercurials and gentle aperients, cooling draughts, 
and the liberal use of quinine with stimulants if 
indicated. Tea over, I sit and watch the moon 
and stars, and wonder if the inhabitants of those 
climes had ever heard of California, until sleep 
shuts out the scene. 

JUNE 2 1 St. Fine morning, sun bright and wind 
stiff from same quarter. At noon in Longitude 
102, latitude 3. Saw a sail which bore away to 
the N.N.W. and was soon lost in the dim distance. 
At night the clouds dispersed and the Queen of 
Night with her starry attendants smiled benignly 
on us with refulgent rays and with an increased 
wind we sailed on o'er the glad waters of the deep 



Notes on Land and Sea 77 

blue sea — through cloudless climes, and starry 
skies. 

JUNE 22nd. "The sky with clouds was over- 
cast", the breeze had increased to a young gale, 
and a few drops of rain occasionally, all bespoke 
a gloomy day at sea. Course as for the last few 
days. Such weather as this people are usually 
irritable and cross, and today we had some quar- 
rels, and a considerable amount of grumbling 
about provisions. The committee on provender 
met and petitioned the Captain for a larger sup- 
ply of rice, molasses, potatoes and better bread, 
all of which he promised should be supplied when 
peace was restored and another day was added to 
the past. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 23rd. Dark, gloomy and 
windy. Our course changed a few points more 
north. Col. Crews of Columbus, Ga. reported 
worse, and about 12 or i he drew his last gasp, 
lying on the poop deck with a few friends and 
acquaintances around while the wind whistled 
through the rigging — melancholy and mournful 
as tho' it was wailing for the spirit which had just 
left its earthly tenement. Preaching again today 
by the Rev. Mr. Home, and about four the mor- 
tal remains of Col. C. were committed to the 
deep. Wrapped in his blanket with weights at- 
tached to his feet, he was laid on a plank, and 
after the Rev. Mr. Home had performed the 



78 Notes on Land and Sea 

funeral ceremonies, he was dropped into the deep 
blue sea; there to await the sound of that trum- 
pet which is to call all to judgment. A funeral 
is solemn at any time and place, but appears to 
be much more so at sea. To see the dead depos- 
ited in the wide waste of water, solitary and alone, 
without any possibility of marking the spot, 
seemed to produce a sadness and thoughtfulness 
on all on board, and the day passed away more 
silent than any one I have yet seen on the Pacific. 
When a person dies at sea they are usually com- 
mitted to the deep in a few hours after the spirit 
takes its leave, as the sailors are a superstitious 
people and believe that a corpse kept on board 
any length of time is the harbinger of evil. Saw 
a small schooner in the afternoon; some of pass- 
engers said was from New York around the 
Horn standing for San Francisco. 
JUNE 24th. Was another dismal, gloomy and 
disagreeable day. Rained all morning, sick and 
felt little disposition to eat. Drank a cup of cof- 
fee to please K. Our apartments were very wet 
and very filthy. Heavy rain killed the wind and 
we rolled about on the sea pointing every direc- 
tion but making no headway. During the rain 
the Captain had the water caught as it ran off 
the poop deck and put it into water casks for 
drinking purposes; but Americans couldn't stand 



Notes on Land and Sea 79 

such as that and told the Captain so. The soup 
made with such water was thrown away, and the 
barrels emptied. The C. was notified that an- 
other such piece of business would lead to some- 
thing serious. Squalls and showers the remainder 
of the day. For dinner ate a wormy cracker and 
piece of mule, and for supper two Irish potatoes, 
half rotten and half cooked. Altogether this 
has been the most disagreeable day I have yet 
experienced, and wound up with a small fight. 
This is one side of the picture of a voyage at 
sea, and if there be a worse one, I care not to 
see it. Night brought us a breeze and so we go. 
JUNE 25th. Cloudy with light breeze and ap- 
pearance of rain. Slept but little and feel very 
sick, our course has been changed and we now 
head for the City of the Eldorado. Another fight 
today. Bad weather and worse provisions appear 
to make men cross, and trifles light as air that 
would not be noticed under other circumstances 
lead to words and curses and blows. After all 
man is considerable of a brute at best, and con- 
sequently has brutish ways. Afternoon calm, but 
with night came wind and rain and drove us 
through the foaming waters at a spanking rate. 
JUNE 26th. Morning cloudy with fair wind. 
K — unwell but nothing serious. At noon a pretty 
heavy squall which rattled things about consid- 



8o Notes on Land and Sea 

erable, and made navigating the decks trouble- 
some and a little dangerous. Sunset brought 
calm and left us so. 

JUNE 27th. Sun rose clear dead ahead. 
Dreamed last night of being in San Francisco etc. 
The sick all improving. Read some of Dr. Dodd's 
lectures on Psychology. Brig in view at 1 1 and 
about noon saw a ship. Spoke to her and found 
her from N.Y. bound for S.F. Head winds and 
no wind and so we made but little progress. The 
ship passed again to leeward of us and showed 
the Star Spangled Banner, while our craft ran up 
the tricolor of Republique La France. Took a 
seat today on the cross trees of the main mast and 
looked down upon the busy multitude below me. 
Mrs. C. and Captain's wife sick. 
JUNE 28th. Sun rose clear and brilliant, winds 
light and old ocean's brow smooth and calm as a 
lake in a peaceful summer's evening. Slept well 
last night, and felt better, considerably better to- 
day. About 10 spoke our acquaintance of yes- 
terday again when she proved to be the Cassandra 
117 days out from N. York. Potatoes out and 
in their place we have soup, made from the bread 
and the worms therein contained. Calm, calm, 
calm. Passengers all mad and talking of anything 
and everything to pass away the time, and tho' 
some of them are lucky enough to raise the wind 
by gambling they cannot raise wind enough to 



Notes on Land and Sea Si 

fill the sails. Extracted another molar. After 
tea got some brandy and made a stew for my 
cold, drank it — went to bed and was soon like 
"Tam O'Shanter — not fou" — but just enough to 
feel glorious o'er all the ills of life victorious. 
JUNE 29th. This morning opened with a stiff 
breeze, and blew us along at a glorious rate tho' 
in the wrong direction. But that is better than 
a calm, for to stand still in this progressive age 
is worse than going wrong. Course west by 
south until noon when the wind changed and so 
did we, running west by north. The Cassandra 
in sight occasionally through the day. Sun set 
clear and we making five knots an hour. 
SUNDAY, JUNE 30th. As soon as I heard 
the sun was up I arose took a bath and put on 
some clean harness, and broke my fast on some 
fresh pork. Our acquaintance of the two past 
days yet in sight tho' towards evening she bore 
away and faded from our view. Preachers both 
unwell, and no preaching today. Duff and mo- 
lasses for dinner and a bottle of wine which we 
used only on Sundays to make it hold out. Night 
brings a 5 knot breeze and so we go to roost. 
MONDAY, JULY ist. Fine breeze this mor- 
ning and the old Cachalot sailing beautifully. 
Went through some comparisons today between 
my present position and twelve months ago; one 
picture was fair and bright, and the other was 



82 Notes on Land and Sea 

dark, watery and gloomy. So I dismissed the 
subject and played a game of whist in which I 
and my partner were victors. Large majority of 
the passengers suffering from bad colds, as we are 
now in the midst of a tropical winter. Water, 
water, water all around us, and but little in our 
casks, said to be nearly out which caused some 
serious reflections, as it is a very solemn thing 
to contemplate being out of water while on sea. 
Day continues clear, breeze fair and so the sun 
and I went to bed together. 

JULY 2nd, 1850. A clear morning and light 
winds, our course being N.W. by N. After break- 
fast while the majority were amusing themselves 
by cards and dice and novels, I hauled up a bucket 
of water and washed ^ dozen pieces, but like my 
first experiment, the skin came off my fingers 
before the grease and dirt would depart from my 
garments. I had almost sworn not to wash any 
more, but as our voyage is likely to be a long one 
must keep as clean as possible to prevent sick- 
ness, which is hard to, on this filthy old ship. 
Towards night the wind hauled round a little and 
sends us more westward than we like. The sun 
made his bed in a bank of clouds and retired to 
rest. 

JULY 3rd. Got up with a headache, and on go- 
ing up found the sun rising dead ahead of us, 
our old vessel having tacked sometime in the night. 



Notes on Land and Sea 83 

A perfect babel on board this morning in conse- 
quence of the Captain saying that we would have 
to make out with a pint of water during 24 
hours, until he could run into the Sandwich Islands 
to replenish. The Committee on Provender met 
and talked and quarreled, and then broke up In 
a row. The Captain wanted an expression of 
opinion from the passengers as to what course 
he should pursue under the circumstances. Some 
were for going straight to the Islands, some for 
San Francisco, and some from the way they cussed 
— were for the devil. After a while the calmest 
and most reasonable of us got together and talked 
the matter over, and finally concluded to let the 
Captain do as he thought best. I learned from 
the Captain that he thought it very doubtful of 
making California before the water would give 
out entirely, but he believed that we could make 
the Islands in good time, so after making a small 
talk to the passengers we agreed to have no more 
committee of grievances and let the Capt. take 
all the responsibility as what was best for him- 
self and us. The old fellow is smart enough to 
try and get the sanction of the Committee — act- 
ing for the passengers — to all he does, which 
would clear him from any damages, should the 
passengers, or any of them bring suit against him 
when they land in Calif, as some are talking of 
doing. But we dissolved all committees today, 



84 Notes on Land and Sea 

and left him to act for us all. Longitude today 
130 from Havre. Winds light and variable and 
what little we have is driving us towards the 
Islands. Ham for din. Towards evening all 
became quiet on board, and as I was a little sick 
and very tired of the day's troubles I laid me 
down early. 

JULY 4th. 74 years ago Independence was de- 
clared by the U. S. Two years ago I was enjoy- 
ing myself hugely tripping the light fantastic toe 
with fair forms and bright eyes, to the melodious 
screeching of wood and catgut, and one year 
ago I was in Shelbyville feasting on the good 
things of earth with friends and relatives, but 
today — Oh! what a change. 'Tis well for man 
that he cannot see the future, for the boldest 
heart would be appalled, and the strongest eye 
would quail at the mountains of danger that now 
surround us, without so much as drawing forth 
an exclamation of wonder, or a shudder at the 
precipices of difficulty that now environ us. Wind 
stiff this morning with flying clouds overhead. 
Fresh pork. This being a national day with the 
passengers the Captain opened his heart and a 
barrel of wine, and gave us all a little grape juice, 
which upon the whole was pretty fair vinegar 
— but with fresh meat, duff and wine we made a 
hearty meal, after which feeling a little patriotic 
we concluded to celebrate. I got a book and 



Notes on Land and Sea 85 

read the "Declaration of Independence" after 
which we had a few short speeches — opened some 
bottles of wine and Otard and made merry until 
old Sol left us, when a shower took possession of 
the deck and drove us all down below, and this 
ended the Fourth of July, 1850. 
JULY 5th. Arose and found the sun up before 
me. Headache and cold worse from yesterday 
being the 4th. Nearly calm, old ship laboring 
along slowly in a southwest course. Tired of that 
direction. Oh! for a change. The Capt. an- 
nounced that he should steer direct for the Islands, 
and that as water was scarce he would be com- 
pelled to allowance us, and stop our coffee and 
tea in the morning and evening. This riled some 
of the passengers a good deal, but as it couldn't 
be helped it had to be borne. In place of coffee 
we got a gill of brandy in the morning, and in the 
place of tea half pint of claret wine. We still 
draw salt pork and beef, and hard bread, and to 
sum up, our fare is now a i^^ pint of water in 
the morning early, for 24 hours, for breakfast 
we have a gill of brandy, a hard cracker and dry 
salt beef. For dinner we have salt pork or beef, 
or as sometimes happens mule meat, hard bread 
and brandy if there is any left from breakfast. 
For supper, sour wine, hard bread, and the rem- 
nants of meat from dinner all to be washed down 
by just one swallow of water, as it is too scarce 



86 Notes on Land and Sea 

and precious to use more than that at a time. I 
had heard of such a thing as short allowance, but 
never experienced it before, in the eating and 
drinking line, and as I profess to be a reasonable 
fellow I am perfectly satisfied with this experi- 
ment, and would be more than willing to quit off 
now. This kind of living will in all probability 
be the cause of some poor fellow being thrown 
overboard to satisfy the appetite of some of the 
monsters of the vasty deep. Hope it will not be 
me. Cloudy. 

JULY 6th. Up this morning with the sun, and 
found the course changed, having tacked ship 
sometime during the night. Old ocean as smooth 
as a mirror with scarce breeze enough to make 
steerage way. Great excitement among the pass- 
engers about the Captain taking us to the Islands. 
Amidst so much noise it was a rich sight to see 
1 60 men all with bottles in their hands rushing 
to the forward hatch to draw their supply of 
water. Messes were called by numbers, and each 
man would step up and get his bottle of water, 
and give way to another. The water was so 
precious that each one, as soon as he drew it, 
locked it up as secure as possible, and would no 
doubt have shed his own or another's blood rather 
than part with it. Noon, breeze sprung up, and 
we again tacked ship, and stood west by S.W. To 
describe the scenes and language of this one day. 



Notes on Land and Sea 87 

would fill a dozen sheets of foolscap. Suffice it 
to say — babel. My own feelings were gloomy and 
more desponding than since leaving home. But 
miserable as the day is — night is worse 
SUNDAY, JULY 7th. As this was Sunday and 
I rolled and tossed all night, I indulged in lying 
abed later. Winds lighter, course N.W. Great 
trading among the passengers in water. Some 
give their wine or brandy or both for a gill of 
water, and some poor fellows offer every cent 
they have in the world for enough to satisfy their 
thirst just one time. The sick are allowed double 
portions, which to those who are parched by 
fever is little enough. Taking a seat in the rig- 
ging I thought of my dream last night, which 
I knew was not true, and which I would not have 
true for all my hopes in California. The dream 
was — no matter what, but it brought memory 
dear of home. Ah, it is sweet to think and talk 
of home, bright, dear, comfortable home, when 
wending our way o'er the dark waters of the deep 
blue sea, or through unknown lands, sitting be- 
neath the roof of strangers, or under the green 
leaves of the wild free woods. Is there ever 
found one ray of sunshine so bright to the heart 
of the wanderer as even one thought of home? 
No, no, no. At 10 had a sermon by the Rev. 
Mr, Home of Knox Co., Tenn. In the after- 
noon preaching and exhorting and prayer meeting. 



88 Notes on Land and Sea 

Wind sprung up fresh and we saw the sunset 
nearly ahead of us, our course being direct for 
the S.W. Islands. 

JULY 8th. Sun rose clear with a fair wind 
and our ship making good headway for the de- 
sired haven at the rate of 6 knots an hour. Con- 
siderable excitement this morning about some 
person stealing water last night. Bitter were 
the execrations against the thief, and rightly so, 
for the water stolen might have saved a human 
life from the worst of deaths. The thief was 

pretty strongly suspected to be of N.O. 

and if ever one fellow was frightened he was. 
Very bad times, but not so bad as they can be. 
Noon clear, bright and wind fair. Discussions 
of the passengers endless and amusing as well as 
ridiculous, but the most common talk is of water 
and when we will make the Islands. Saw a large 
school of porpoises in their uncouth gambols, and 
then the sun was gone. 

JULY 9th. Sun shining brightly when I arose 
with fair winds for our speedy anchorage among 
the Islands. Gambling is becoming profitable to 
a few but more unprofitable to the many. Wind 
continued fair through the day, the sun set clear, 
and stars innumerable showed themselves as I 
lay on my back on the hatch covering, and I won- 
dered if such scenes as were occurring around me 



Notes on Land and Sea 89 

ever transpired in those far distant worlds; while 
so musing I fell into a deep sleep, and, and thus 
ended July 9th. 

JULY loth. Up early and saw the sun arise 
from his watery bed, clear and bright. Winds 
light but favorable for our course. My cold 
and headache continues, and many others be- 
coming affected which I could not account for, 
until I remembered that we were in the midst of 
winter in the torrid zone, with its hot days and 
chilly nights. Some new cases of fever this mor- 
ning. Day continued clear, and when myself and 
the sun retired to rest the stars were out in all 
their glory, bright and innumerable. 
JULY nth. A fair morning, a flowing sea and 
wind that followed fast, and we gliding along 
o'er the deep waters of the old Pacific, at the rate 
of 7 knots an hour in the right course for the 
Islands. The prospect of soon reaching our ha- 
ven induced the Captain to give us some hot 
water which he called tea for breakfast. The 
days are dry, the nights not so cool and bad 
colds disappearing gradually like they say Law- 
yers go to the good place. The breeze held up 
fair through the day, and as the sun disappeared 
the young moon and Miss Venus made their de- 
but, and vied with each other as to which would 
shed the most light upon us wanderers. My opin- 



90 Notes on Land and Sea 

ion was that Venus bore off the palm, her rays 
being so bright that an intervening object would 
cast a shadow. 

JULY 1 2th. This morning was fair with a tol- 
erable good wind, which sent us careening onward 
at the rate of 6 knots an hour to the S.I. While 
1 was performing my morning ablutions a fight oc- 
curred between S. and the cook, about coffee. 
S. used some hard words and drew a knife, but 
before he could do any good with it the by- 
standers interfered, peaceful relations were re- 
stored, and we had to eat our breakfast without 
a fight. My cold nearly well. Rain towards 
evening then clear sun set, then a host of stars — 
then a reverie — and then to sleep. 
JULY 13th. Slept sound and good last night 
and dreamed I was in San Francisco with a few 
old acquaintances. Rain during the night, but 
morning was clear with a fair wind and our ves- 
sel sailing delightfully well. Examined a case 
of Fistula upon Mr. L. of N.O. with Dr. Y — 
and advised an operation to which the patient 
would not submit. Dinner worse than usual, 
which made me half miserable the remainder of 
the day, and at sundown I stretched myself on my 
plank to pass away the leaden hours of night 
as best I could. 

JULY 14th. Arose this morning at 4 by the 
pleasant cry of, land ho ! and at daylight had the 



Notes on Land and Sea 91 

pleasure of looking again on Terra Firma. 
Passengers all in fine spirits, with pleasant coun- 
tenances, which was really refreshing to a man 
who had scarcely seen a smile for a week or 
more. Olihyhee or Hawaii the name of the 
Island upon which we are now gazing is the lar- 
gest one of the group composing the Sandwich 
Islands, and the one upon which the celebrated 
Captain Cook was murdered by the natives. We 
ran in sight of this Island all day, the shores of 
which were bold, rugged and imposing, with 
mountains of considerable height rising gradu- 
ally from the sea. The surf breaking on the 
rugged shores with the small streams leaping 
down the hills, and the cataracts of the larger ones 
white with foam as they dashed from crag to 
precipice, presented the grandest as well as 
pleasantest view I had seen for many a long weary 
day. Oh ! how I wished to be on those hills, 
with dog, gun and boon companions to give their 
denizens a chase for life. And these are the 
Islands about which I studied when a wee bit of 
boy, but never thought to see them, and yet this 
should teach us there's a Divinity shapes our ends, 
rough hew how we will. Towards evening as we 
wore off from the Island, and just as the sun was 
dipping its gilded crest into the vasty deep, one 
of the highest mountains in the Pacific, with its 
snow capped summit broke upon our view. The 



92 Notes on Land and Sea 

name of the peak, if I forget it not is Moona- 
rovih and is said to be some 13,760 feet about 
the level of the sea. The middle of July in the 
Torrid zone was a place we had not expected to 
find snow, unless we had brushed up our geo- 
graphical knowledge a little. With the last rays 
of the God of day reflected on its summit, as it 
lifted its hoary head above the clouds, it might 
well cause one to exclaim 

"Moonarovih is the monarch of mountains, 
They've crowned him long ago. 
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, 
With a diadem of snow." 

As it disappeared in the fast approaching twi- 
light, I turned away with a sigh and, and wished 
I had a big ball of snow from its summit. About 
dusk the second Island was seen with its bold 
shores, bleak hills, and verdureless appearance; 
so with one island fading from view, and another 
looming up in the distance, the day was over or 
done and night silent but for the creaking of the 
cordage, and the mysterious murmur of old ocean 
began its reign, when I, fatigued v/ith the day's 
excitement turned into my bunk. 
JULY 15th. With the sun I was up, when an- 
other magnificent prospect greeted my sight. The 
second island was in sight, and with its lofty and 



Notes on Land and Sea 93 

bald headed peaks shooting far above the clouds, 
was about as grand a sight as I ever saw the sun 
rise upon. This one called Maui and said to 
be uninhabited, presents an appearance of having 
been thrown up by some grand volcanic emotion 
of nature. Soon we saw another island to which 
there is no name that I wot of, which had pretty 
much the same appearance as the last, with its 
bald knobs, bleak hills, and deep fissures or ra- 
vines, and I longed to be out on those hills, and 
examine their hidden mysteries. After noon we 
saw another, and as we sailed along apparently 
in a half mile, they're really 5 or 6 miles distant, 
we could plainly see trees, and with the aid of 
the Captain's telescope, houses, until we made out 
a considerable town which is called Lahaina. 
From our position the houses appeared on the 
very edge of the water under those bold and rug- 
ged hills. Next we saw Oahu, where we were 
to stop, but as the Captain had never been there, 
he kept beating off and on all night. I watched 
•the sun go down behind a huge hill. Saw the 
Queen of Night take his place, and laid me down 
to sleep and dream. 

TUESDAY, JULY i6th. Arising with the sun 
this morning I found the Cachalot standing in 
for the harbor of Honolulu, where we arrived 
about 10. During the morning all hands were 
busy brushing up, overhauling trunks, bags, etc., 



94 Notes on Land and Sea 

and putting on their best apparel before going 
ashore. White shirts that had not seen the light 
since leaving Panama, and a few, very few black 
boots, made their appearance, and soon all of us 
had on our best harness. The shores of this 
Island before running into harbor were bold and 
rugged as the others we had seen, with an occa- 
sional cave or valley, where we could see groves 
of the cocoanut trees. The most amusing looking 
objects on the water were the hundreds of little 
fishing canoes, sharp at both ends, with from 
one to three persons of both sexes in them skim- 
ming about the water, as they were endowed with 
life. They had a piece of plank or board across 
them, about midway, to prevent their capsizing, 
but even with this they are the smallest and un- 
safest looking craft to go to sea in I ever saw, 
and which I would not venture far in, tho' it is 
said they go out 5 or 6 miles, and sometimes even 
to the adjacent islands. As soon as our vessel 
came in distance a pilot came out, and run us into 
harbor, about one mile from town where the an- 
chor was cast loose and brought us to anchorage. 
Immediately our ship was inundated with a motley 
set of beings as eye ever saw, proffering to sell 
us fruits, melons and milk, and other things of 
like nature; while others were anxious to convey 
us ashore for the small sum of one dollar each. 
The boatmen were from all nations, and as each 



Notes on Land and Sea 95 

and all were talking and bargaining at the same 
time it was almost impossible to hear, or see any- 
thing satisfactorily. Myself and crowd with L — 
and C — of N.O. finally chartered a snug little 
craft called the Rob Roy, and bestowing our 
baggage first and ourselves next in it, we were 
soon riding the waves with an exuberance of 
spirit we had not felt for many a day. There 
was quite a fleet of ships in harbor with their na- 
tional flags displayed, of which the Star Spangled 
Banner was to me the most attractive, as it was 
so long since I had gazed upon it, that its very 
sight made me feel as if I had met an old acquain- 
tance. As soon as the boat touched the wharf I 
leaped ashore the first one from old Bedford, 
with almost a feeling of reverence and adoration 
for old mother earth. The custom house officer 
eyed my little carpet bag in which there was 
change of linen, and some that needed soap and 
water, pretty close, but said nothing to me, but 
some that had trunks or suspicious looking 
bundles he overhauled. To our right as we 
landed is the remnant of a very nice fort and a 
few pieces of cannon, which the French a short 
time ago, used very roughly, for after demolish- 
ing the fort and spiking the guns they removed 
and otherwise disfigured various appurtenances 
thereto belonging. The cause of all this was 
because the Official belonging to the government 



96 Notes on Land and Sea 

refused to permit a cargo o^ French brandy to 
be landed for the benefit of the minister and 
consul of the French republic. The excitement 
at the time was very great, and the French had 
threatened to fire on the town from a man of war 
that was lying in the harbor, but just in the nick 
of time the U.S. sloop of war Preble came into 
port, and the Captain learning the difficulty, told 
the Frenchmen that with their quarrel he had 
nothing, but if he injured an American, either in 
person or property to the extent of a farthing by 
firing into the town, he would open a broadside 
on him and sink him where he lay. This cooled 
the Frenchman's fire, and finding they could get 
revenge in no way, they landed and destroyed 
the fort. On our left was the Customhouse, 
built of coral rock and looking very pretty, while 
a little farther on our right again was a large 
house going up, the lower part of which was to 
be a market place, and the upper to be used as 
a customhouse, the other being to small. We 
had proceeded but a short distance before we 
came to booths where all kinds of tempting look- 
ing fruits were displayed for sale, and the way 
we pitched into them, and pitched them into us, 
was on the fast order. Melons, grapes, juicy and 
luscious, plantains, bananas, figs, bread fruit 
and cocoanuts suffered smartly. After surfeiting 
the appetite, we proceeded to Captain Carter's 



Notes on Land and Sea 97 

a Bostonlan, and engaged board, during our stay 
on the Island at $2 per day, without lodging, 
and then a rented room at $3.00 per week for 
lodging; so taking possession of it we found 3 
or 4 good looking beds, a cot or two, several 
chairs, water and bowl, a looking glass, several 
pictures, one of Pres. Polk, and other little things 
necessary for comfort and ornament. Two o'clock 
brought dinner, and as it was of the very best 
order, my appetite good, and a long, long time 
since I sat down to so well spread a board, it is 
one of the certainties that I did ample justice 
to it, and my companions were not lacking in 
the attentions they bestowed to the various 
dishes set before them. It was a real American 
dinner, and as Americans we did it ample justice. 
After indulging in a siesta for a couple of hours, 
we started out to see the town, the people and 
sights generally. The King whose name is Hame- 
hamaha, or something like it, lives in a fine house 
built of coral stone and American Lumber, and 
with its observatory, its vine clad porticoes, grav- 
eled walks, and beautiful shrubbery, was the cool- 
est, neatest and most tastily arranged place I had 
seen for many a day. The English and Ameri- 
cans of whom there are quite a number live in 
much better style than the natives, with the excep- 
tion of a few chiefs, whose houses are tastily built 
and ornamented, while all or nearly all have beau- 



98 Notes on Land and Sea 

tiful trees and shrubbery around them. Some 
of the streets are wide and well laid out, as re- 
gards straightness, but many are narrow and in- 
tersect each other at all sorts of angles. While 
sauntering about with no particular object in view 
my attention was attracted to a stylish looking 
female, who came out of a house just ahead of 
me, and went tripping along before me for some 
distance. Her dress appeared to be of the finest 
silk with flounces and other fixings that the female 
sex adorn themselves with. A little hat set jaunti- 
ly on her head gave her a rather coquettish ap- 
pearance, while her feet encased in embroidered 
slippers without stockings showed a well turned 
ankle and foot etc. Whilst I was admiring her 
appearance she met an acquaintance dressed in 
the same style, when they both sat right down 
in the middle of the street in the dirt to hold a 
confab. Well thinks I to myself, here's a go. 
What would one of our Tennessee belles say to 
this; and so I passed on with the old saying of 
"live and learn", forcibly impressed on my mind. 
Many of the houses are surrounded by high walls 
built of sun burnt bricks and even some of the 
houses are built of the same material, but by 
far the greater part of the lower class of natives 
live in houses built of cane and palm and covered 
with the palm leaf, and a kind of grass that grows 
luxuriantly here. In noticing the native men, 



Notes on Land and Sea 99 

they appeared indolent and contented with them- 
selves and the rest of mankind, and to a casual 
observer were heavy, well set, strong, able bodied 
men, but owing to some unrevealed cause they are 
not long lived and are inclined to obesity as they 
grow old. In fact there are but few children 
raised and the population is rapidly passing away. 
There is something strange in the fact that wher- 
ever the Christian religion has established itself, 
the original inhabitants are passing very fast 
away and from present indications the Indians of 
North America and the Kanakas of the Hawaiian 
Islands will soon be numbered with things that 
were. The natives of both sexes are subject to 
scrofula, and its concomitant evils, and whole 
families are frequently hurried by it to the grave. 
Before sunset I saw many of the native women 
taking their evening ride, which they do on the 
same saddles, and in the same way as the males, 
and with their flowing skirts, flying ribbons, neat 
little riding hats, and the John Gilpin speed at 
which they go, was another new feature to me in 
appearance and amusement. My landlady told 
me I should see them of a Saturday, as that was 
the day on which the whole population that could 
afford it were on horseback, going it at a real 
breakneck speed. At the supper table I made 
the acquaintance of a Dr. Newcomb who went 
out to California from Albany, N.Y. and after 



ioo Notes on Land and Sea 

remaining there long enough for the company of 
which he was a member to break up, and spending 
a good deal of money and losing his health went 
over to the Island of Oahu. The Dr. and his 
family have been in Honolulu some three or four 
months, and he is now doing a very good business 
in his profession. After having a long talk with 
him about California, the Islands and its people 
I went with him to see some of his patients. Into 
one or two of the houses of the Chiefs or nobles 
I found everything neatly and tastily arranged. 
The floors were thickly covered with matting of 
all hues and textures, from the coarsest door 
mats to the finest of material. They have but few 
and many indeed have no chairs, and their beds 
are frequently composed entirely of matting. 
They sit flat down to eat or entertain their visi- 
tors, and apparently enjoy themselves hugely when 
an American calls to see them. I sat down along- 
side of a young woman who offered me fruits, wa- 
ter and cakes, and who appeared well pleased 
with me in every respect but one, and that was, 
I did not nor could not talk to her, for which I 
made amends by thinking most prodigiously. I 
saw a good deal of Chinese furniture In some of 
the houses, such as table work boxes, and curi- 
ously carved and strangely shaped chairs. The 
Dr.'s family being out in the country he invited 



Notes on Land and Sea loi 

me to share his bed, an Invitation which I very 
readily accepted, and made use of. 
WEDNESDAY JULY 17th. Arose from a 
most refreshing sleep as my bed was superior to 
anything I haVe slept on since leaving home, a 
nice room, well carpeted floor, clean sheets, mos- 
quito bar and in fact everything was neat and 
comfortable, all proving beyond the shadow of a 
doubt that a woman's eye and woman's hand had 
the surveillance and arranging of it. After break- 
fast went out to the ship to arrange things, and 
have some washing done, which I paid $1.00 a 
dozen for. Going over the town I found most of 
the business done by Americans and English, with 
a right smart chance of French, Chinese and Span- 
ish; while I met many invalids from California, 
of all nations, who came here to recruit as the 
climate and living is yet far superior to anything 
in that gold hunting country, and will I doubt not 
be a rendezvous for the sick of California when 
a line of steamers is established between the two 
countries. Saw but very little drunkenness, and 
that little was mostly tars or strangers here, and 
but few drinking houses and public gaming estab- 
lishments. The Californians give a different ac- 
count of the gold country than what we heard in 
the States, and If they tell the truth few men 
would leave comfortable homes in the States to 



102 Notes on Land and Sea 

try for a fortune in the Western Eldorado. Wages 
are very good, and a man can live well and lay 
up some money for a rainy day, by being indus- 
trious and economical. Capitalists have the 
same advantage here as elsewhere, and some few 
who purchased property a few years ago are now 
realizing handsome profits from it, as its value 
is greatly increased since the opening of the Cali- 
fornia market for all the surplus productions of 
the Island. Some Americans, English and French 
have married among the natives, and their influ- 
ence is seen and felt in the bustling activity and 
go ahead business way; so different from the na- 
tives a few years ago, in fact civilization is far- 
ther advanced here than on the Isthmus, and the 
sobriety and good order of the native inhabitants 
is superior to many who call themselves and pro- 
fess to be Christians, in some of the States. The 
Missionary influence is felt here and seen in the 
affairs of government, and some who are envious 
of the influence and popularity of Dr. Judd, go 
so far as to say that when the Dr. takes a pinch 
of snuff the King sneezes. Be that as it may, 
Dr. Judd is a man of considerable influence on 
this Island, to prov« which he is at this time Min- 
ister Plenipotentiary, Extraordinary etc. to the 
court of St. James. The Constitution and prin- 
ciple of this government is something like the 
U. S. modified to suit a half way monarchy. The 



Notes on Land and Sea 103 

present King — the third of his line is a well in- 
formed colored gentleman, noted for his physical 
strength, love of brandy and the opposite sex. 
He has no children by his Queen, but has adopted 
a nephew who will fall heir to the throne should 
he die childless. John Young, an Englishman 
by descent is premier, and is son of the man who 
was mainly instrumental in placing the first king 
on the throne and establishing the present form 
of government. 

JULY 1 8th. From indulging so freely for the 
two last days in eatables, I was very sick all 
night and this morning feel too unwell to go to 
breakfast, so under the advice of Dr. N. I made 
my breakfast on Sub. Mur. Hydrang. and Dov. 
pulv. and dinner on oleum Ricini, and lay abed 
all day. In the afternoon some of my friends not 
seeing me out, called to know what was the mat- 
ter, and found me stretched on a sofa in the Dr's 
parlor reading and sleeping alternately. The 
Doctor's wife and daughter who was quite pretty, 
came in and were taken all aback by finding a 
stranger making himself so free and easy in their 
house in their absence. I introduced myself, and 
told them the Dr. was accountable for my presence 
and any damages I had done, and that as he was 
absent I would try and entertain in their own 
house to the best of my poor ability. We soon 
were laughing and talking like old acquaintances, 



104 Notes on Land and Sea 

and when they rose to return inviting me out to 
see them, I felt a loneliness steal over me, that 
was worse than if I had not seen such bright eyes 
and kindly smiles. 

FRIDAY JULY 19th. Feeling comfortable this 
morning I went to breakfast, and heard from my 
friends that the Captain of our vessel requested 
all the passengers to be on board by 10 P.M. 
So as this was our last day on shore I spent it in 
seeing the remainder of things unseen. With 
Dr. N — I visited a large garden and saw among 
other things useful and ornamental, ine Tarra 
a species of Potato, something like the Yam 
growing in abundance. The land for cultivating 
the Tarra is dug out or down several inches, the 
water let on it and allowed to remain for several 
days; it is then drained off, the ground beaten 
down hard, when the plant is set out and watered 
by irrigation at certain seasons of the year. The 
Indigo plant is cultivated quite successfully, and 
as to coffee it is cultivated enough for home con- 
sumption, and forms a considerable source of 
revenue by exportation to California, and other 
heathen countries. The valley extending several 
miles from the City to the mountains is rich and 
prolific, well watered and in a high state of culti- 
vation. The most of the water used is brought 
from the mountain through the valley, where 
they have pools and cascades, and where the na- 



Notes on Land and Sea 105 

tives indulge in bathing. There are some wells 
in the City for drinking water but the larger part 
of that is brought from the valley in Calabashes 
or large gourds on the heads and backs of na- 
tives. The citizens are building a large pool 
or reservoir, which will be filled by pipes from 
the springs above, and thus supply the town with 
plenty of pure sweet water. A good many of 
our passengers were on horseback today riding 
over the town and into the country, and there is 
one place some 5 or 6 miles out richly worth 
visiting. You leave the City and ride through 
the valley, with its small farms, fine gardens and 
neat cottage houses until you strike the mountains 
when the road narrows down to a single track, 
shut in on each side by overhanging precipices 
and hills. After going thus for several miles, the 
road becoming more narrow and the hills more 
rugged, you are brought to a halt by what appears 
to be the end of the road, while far down below 
you is a beautiful valley, green with verdure and 
dotted with houses. The hills rise up on all 
sides nearly perpendicular, and you are at a loss 
to know how the people down there ever get out, 
but after becoming a little accustomed to the 
strangeness of the scene, you can spy the road 
winding along the sides of the hills, until it finally 
dips down into the valley. To stand upon the 
edge of the precipice, and gaze down on to active 



io6 Notes on Land and Sea 

bustling life below, while all around is stern rug- 
ged and grand — one can almost imagine that a 
violent commotion of mother earth produced 
the strange scene upon which you are gazing, and 
that the green vale at your feet was once the 
center of an active volcano, belching forth smoke, 
fire and red hot molten lava. Such I think was 
the cause of the strange scene upon which we are 
now gazing, and the appearance of the hills and 
mountains all strengthen such a conclusion, as 
they one and all present the appearance of having 
been formed by volcanic eruptions. Just back of 
the City is an old fort, now nearly in ruins, upon 
which are kept a few pieces of old cannon to make 
a noise with on national days; and here it was 
that the big and first fight occurred that subjected 
the original inhabitants to the present form of 
government, and here is the place where Young, 
the Englishman showed such superior skill and 
daring and courage, for which the King when once 
firmly established on the throne so nobly and 
richly rewarded him. Saw several missionary, 
Methodist preachers today and conversed with 
them on and about the Islands. The Americans 
or at least some of them say that the 
Missionaries are worse than the Catholics in 
exacting tithes from the natives, and that in this 
way they have acquired and own some of the best 
lands and property on the Island, and that in this 



Notes on Land and Sea 107 

way for their own aggrandizement, under the 
cloak of religion they are fast acquiring the best 
property on the Islands, to the detriment of com- 
merce and trade and the injury of the people. 
Saw the sugar cane growing, and was told that 
four crops were raised from one planting, and 
that some enterprising men having engaged in the 
business, it would soon form a considerable source 
of revenue to the government, and profit to the 
growers. There are several very good and sub- 
stantial looking churches in the City built of coral 
stone, and upon the top of one I noticed the cross* 
of the Catholics. Wherever I have been yet that 
cross is seen and its slaves and votaries are scat- 
tered the wide world o'er doing the will not of 
God, but of the Pope who claims to be the repre- 
sentative of the Most High. Strolled into a house 
of one of the chiefs again today, and found them 
sitting flat on their mats, eating and drinking. 
I declined the invitation to join, and soon took 
my leave to prepare for embarking once more on 
the restless waters of the old Pacific. The Chil- 
dren of Americans who were born here speak 
both languages very fluently, in fact Mrs. Carter 
told me that her children preferred the Kanaka 
language and would talk to their nurse rather than 
her about what they saw and heard. Dr. N — 
presented me some pretty shells obtained from 
this and some other of the islands, also some me- 



io8 Notes on Land and Sea 

dicinals and papers which I packed away and 
then went out to make some purchases of articles 
necessary for a sea voyage. Mix, one of my mess 
is and has been very sick while on shore, so after 
seeing him and directing some comforts and con- 
diments for him on board I left promising to see 
him again on board by 8 or 9 o'clock. Just before 
sunset I left the few kind friends I had made in 
the City, and stepped into a boat with my com- 
panions and we were soon alongside of our ship, 
the dirtiest looking one in the harbor which was 
to be our home for an indefinite number of days. 
All was bustle and confusion on board, passen- 
gers coming on, each bringing something in the 
way of eatables to make up for the bad fare which 
they knew we would receive when once more 
afloat. The water casks were all filled, a fresh 
supp)ly of meat and vegetables and a goat for the 
Lady Captain. My bunk was so different from 
the Dr's quarters on shore that it was midnight 
before I could manage to sleep, and that was not 
more than half done. 

SATURDAY JULY 20th. Instead of feeling 
the motion of a vessel cutting the waters this 
morning, all was still when I awoke, and on rising 
found we were swinging at anchor as when I lay 
down. Nearly as soon as light, quite a fleet of 
boats came out loaded with melons, fruits etc. 
and a brisk business commenced between the 



Notes on Land and Sea 109 

passengers and natives. As my supplies were all 
on board I took a position where I could see and 
hear all that was going on, and enjoyed a few 
hearty laughs at the expense of some of my fellow 
passengers. At 10 A.M. the Captain's yawl, 
which had been uptown for some papers returned 
and was hauled up and word was given to weigh 
anchor. Some of our passengers had been instru- 
mental in procuring passage for a man by the 
name of Camp who was out on the Islands re- 
cruiting his health, which had suffered seriously 
in the mines of California, and now wished to re- 
turn. K — became acquainted with him and in- 
vited him to join our mess, which he did. The 
heave, ho, he of the sailors announced that the 
anchor was on its way from the coral bottom of 
the bay, and soon it hove in sight. The sails 
were squared away and catching the breeze filled, 
and as the old ship obeyed her helm we were once 
more afloat on the deep blue waters. Looking at 
the sailors at work I spied a strange face, and 
learned that he had shipped for Francisco, work- 
ing his passage. The passengers generally were 
scattered about in little groups over the vessel, 
talking of their visit to Honolulu, and as each 
had some particular story to tell of what he saw, 
heard and did, many a hearty laugh would ring 
out above the noise of the flapping sails, and 
rippling waters. On leaving anchorage our course 



no Notes on Land and Sea 

was due west until late In the afternoon when 
we changed a little to the North. Some con- 
siderable mountains hove in sight as we rounded 
the western portion of Oahu, presenting about 
the same appearance as others we had seen, bleak, 
barren and desolate. The wind gradually in- 
creased until towards sunset when it blew a con- 
siderable gale, and soon after the last headland 
disappeared, the alarming cry of "man over- 
board" was heard. For a moment every man ap- 
peared to be paralyzed and stunned, then hurried 
and anxious glances were cast around to see who 
was missing — each one afraid to ask, who is it, 
for fear it should prove a friend or brother. Re- 
action was as sudden as the shock, and immedi- 
ately hen-coops, buckets, chairs and such things 
were thrown overboard with the hope, vain tho' 
it was, that some of them would drift in reach of 
the drowning man. As quick as knives could cut 
ropes, and strongly excited men could throw a 
boat over, the yawl was into the sea, when three 
bold daring fellows leaped in after her. They 
did not take time to let themselves down by 
ropes, but with a bound they were in the boiling 
waters striking for the yawl that was held by a 
line. Oars, and a bucket to bail out the water 
were thrown them and they cast loose, to seek 
their lost companion. All eyes were strained 
to see the poor sailor, the ship was hauled to 



Notes on Land and Sea 1 1 1 

and trembled like a frightened bird, while the 
wind blew almost a hurricane. The little boat 
with her noble crew occasionally seen on a moun- 
tain wave, then disappeared as tho she too had 
found a watery grave. The sailor was a French- 
man, the pride of the officers and crew, as well 
as the favorite of the passengers, and had gone 
over the bows to take in some clothing, which 
was getting wet by the waves and spray, and 
while holding on with one hand a mountain wave 
struck him, and washed him off the ropes, and 
before he could recover another huge sea swept 
him from his hold into the water. He was seen 
as he went down by the side of the ship, and once 
some distance behind her, then the waters closed 
over him and his spirit had winged its way to the 
place of Judgment. The night was closing rapidly 
around us, and fears were entertained about the 
yawl and crew, but soon she made her appearance 
and was hauled up on deck, her crew exhausted 
with the almost herculean efforts they had under- 
gone. The wind whistled and moaned through 
the rigging as tho' it were wailing the lost spirit 
of him who was so suddenly snatched from our 
midst. The sails were once more set and the old 
ship riding the waves, when I solemn and mel- 
ancholy retired to my bunk. 



112 Notes on Land and Sea 

Begun JULY 21st., 1850—12 o'clock PACIFIC 
OCEAN— Lat. 323^, Long. 16. 

1850 
SUNDAY, JULY 21st, 1850. With the com- 
mencement of a new week, I commence scribbling 
o'er a new book — having finished one with the 
close of the past week, and Oh ! how differently 
situated I am now than when I commenced the 
other one. Then I was in Tennessee "on the wa- 
ter it is true" — but on a small stream in a perfect 
floating palace — now I am in the wide, wild fath- 
omless sea — on the Pacific Ocean — "the largest 
in the World" on a French ship commanded by 
Capt. DeGrand, filthy and nauseous. But why 
go on thus? We are all in for it, so let's not 
complain but make the best we can out of a bad 
bargain. Another Sabbath has rolled around and 
still finds us on the dark blue sea whiling the 
hours away as best we can. Yesterday evening's 
scene was the most terrible I ever beheld; death 
in any shape has its horrors, but when attended 
by such circumstances as we saw yesterday, it 
was truly alarming. Confusion prevailed — all 
eyes were watching for the poor fellow as a huge 
wave would lift him up then he would apparently 
sink to rise no more, until another wave would 
lift him about the boiling waters again. The 
wind whistled and moaned through the rigging, 
the waves ran high and nature seemed to weep 



Notes on Land and Sea 1 13 

for the lot of one of her children. The little boat 
that was launched for his relief without success, 
rode the waves with her gallant crew most nobly. 
Sometimes she would appear to be gone, then 
she would appear on the top of a mountain wave 
as though she were leaping from one to another. 
She returned to the ship, her gallant crew wet 
and nearly exhausted with their labors, after her 
unsuccessful search for the poor sailor. Today 
his sad and unexpected demise is the theme of 
conversation, for he was a favorite among the 
passengers as well as the Captain and crew. 

Last night, as soon as we cleared the Island, 
we steered a north course varying a little to the 
westward, as the wind varied and today finds us 
going the same course with a stiff wind and flowing 
sea. Some considerable sickness, "Diarrhea" 
among the passengers this morning from a too 
free indulgence in fresh meats, fruits, vegetables, 
etc. Mix is very six and has been unwell for 
three or four weeks. His case is a pretty hard 
one at present. Diarrhea, cough, headache and 
fever. Showery, occasionally with a stiff N.E. 
wind all the day — and so it ended. 
MONDAY, JULY 22, 1850. Arose this morn- 
ing and found the old "Cachalot" going finely, 
the wind coming from the same quarter as yester- 
day. The sea is rough and navigating the decks 
is very hard to do. M. is no better and suffers 



114 Notes on Land and Sea 

considerably from having to lie in such a confined 
and unwholesome place as the hold of this ship. 
No comforts and conveniences for a sick person 
renders his condition as unpleasant as can be 
imagined. Showery again today with cold wind in 
the night and morning. We have now got north 
of old Sol once more and the clouds and wind 
begin to look and feel like home. This, and the 
last two days have closed with a squall, wind and 
rain, making overcoats comfortable. The moon 
shines bright but has not that brilliant lustre it 
had, to me, when we were in the torrid zone. 
To bed — to sleep and dream. 
TUESDAY, JULY 23, 1850. Cool and clear 
this morning with the same wind, our old vessel 
going North making a little westing occasionally 
as the wind varies. Cool but pure air. Sickness 
gradually disappearing with the exception of 
"S" who has been sick nearly all the voyage, and 
*'M" who is worse this morning. I invited Dr. 
"Y" to see him. He did so and we decided to 
vesicate his cervix and lower extremities, continu- 
ing about the same treatment — otherwise upon 
which I had placed him. The excitement of visit- 
ing the Island, together with the fresh fruit is 
pretty well gone, and we have all got down to our 
old way of living and passing the time. Wormy 
bread, salt pork and beef, bad coffee and worse 
tea, comprise our living as usual. While we 



Notes on Land and Sea 115 

wash our eating utensils as before landing, so 
passes the day and night comes on. 
WEDNESDAY, JULY 24, 1850. Arose this 
morning about breakfast time and found our old 
ship ploughing along as for the last few days, 
with the exception of bearing a little to the east 
instead of west, the wind having slightly varied. 
We are now considerably westward of the S.W. 
Islands, "farther West than I ever was before" 
and if I had my way, would go east, our destina- 
tion being that way from where we now are. 
"M" Is slightly better this morning, the medi- 
cine and blisters having acted as we anticipated. 
Today, we have more squalls, rain and wind. 
Yesterday evening we had a squall about supper 
time, which wound up the day, as the days have 
all ended since leaving the S.W. Islands. Since 
leaving the Islands the Captain has been so liberal 
as to give us cabbages and pumpkins. He gives 
out FOUR cabbage heads and one or two small 
pumpkins or squashes for 163 passengers — "Aint 
that liberal !" which was boiled with the beans or 
peas in the form of soup, so that a mess of ten 
men would get about one leaf and a piece of 
squash as large as a dollar. Oh ! most liberal 
Capt. LeGrand! we the passengers will long re- 
member thy generosity and liberality! Saw a 
bird this evening called an Albatros; a large 
black looking bird. Extracted a Grinder for 



ii6 Notes on Land and Sea 

"K". As we were eating our supper of tea and 
sweet potatoes, another squall came up, then old 
Sol went to rest and the moon took his place. 
THURSDAY, JULY 25, 1850. Cloudy and 
showery, our ship heading nearly east but not 
wind enough to make headway. We have got 
where the weather is more changeable, something 
like home, cool and hot, rain and sunshine all 
the same day. "M" is about as yesterday, some 
febrile excitement existing this morning. A suc- 
cession of little squalls and calms so that we 
make no headway. It appears that we have run 
out of the trade winds that prevail around the 
S.W. Islands, our latitude to-day being about 
33°, Longitude, I don't know, somewhere about 
160, I guess, and it is to be hoped that the next 
steady wind we have will carry us to our destined 
port. About noon to-day, some of the passengers 
caught a large bird, very much like a wild goose, 
which sailors call a "stinker". It has very long 
wings, measuring something like four feet across. 
Web feet, and legs nearly a foot in length, 
large neck and head with a heavy bill turned 
down at the point. It is the same bird which 
some of the passengers yesterday called an Alba- 
tros. The feathers are of a dark color and on 
the whole there is very little beauty about the 
"varmint" or a bird. Tacked ship soon after 
dinner and stood S.E. until supper time, when 



Notes on Land and Sea 117 

tacked again and stood about the same course as 
for the last four days. No wind though to make 
any headway no matter what course the old 
"Cachalot" turns her head. The sun set in the 
West as usual and up rose the full round moon, 
which brings night. 

FRIDAY, JULY 26, 1850. Going on deck this 
morning, I found the sun dead ahead of us, the 
Captain having tacked ship again, some time dur- 
ing the night. Wind light, so light that we ap- 
pear to be standing still in the same place we 
have been standing for the last two days. At 
least it looks so to me. What an improvement in» 
navigation it would be to have Mile stones and 
Sign hoards stuck up all over the. Ocean, we could 
see then how far we travel in a day and whether 
or not we were going right. As it is, we can't 
tell, the sea appears the same all over when we 
are out of sight of land. The same blue looking 
water and sky the same boundless expanse of 
the great deep. A squall may disturb the seren- 
ity of old Ocean's brow for a minute or so, then 
all is calm again. "M" is in Statu Quo — the in- 
fluence of "steerage air" appears to counteract 
the good effects of medicine so that it is difficult 
to obtain the full effect of any medicine we can 
use in such a confined atmosphere. The constant 
noise and buzz arising "necessarily" from so 
many passengers crowded as we are, is little cal- 



ii8 Notes on Land and Sea 

culated to do a sick man good, to minister to a 
mind diseased for what person can suffer much 
bodily, without his mind becoming "more or less 
affected" — No one's. To-day, we have had as 
near a calm as is often seen, or at least is de- 
sirable to one sick and tired of this long voyage. 
In the afternoon, some of the passengers amused 
themselves with hook and line in catching those 
strange looking fowls called "stinkers". The 
hooks are baited and thrown over, when they 
catch the bait and swallow it, and are thus drawn 
on deck. Quite a large bird, and quite vicious 
they are when you approach near to them. The 
Captain Lady was out of her room for the first 
time since leaving Panama, having been sick be-: 

fore and ever since I came on board this d d 

old craft. Towards night the wind freshened 
up and our old bark skimmed along finely head- 
ing a little north of east, the right course for 
San Francisco. Finding the old ship could sail 
as well if I was asleep as awake I turned in and 
dozed and dreamed away the night. 
SATURDAY, JULY 27, 1850. Cloudy and 
rain and a little wind, fair but light, we going a 
little north of east, which is our right course for 
the land of Ophir. As this is my wash day again, 
I must prepare for it by getting things in readi- 
ness. The Capt. announced to-day that he would 
give us, "each mess" a bottle of Brandy, tomor- 



Notes on Land and Sea 119 

row, and would continue to do so the balance of 
the voyage. So it appears that the Capt. is not 
so hard-hearted as we thought him, indeed, all 
men, however mean they may appear, will at 
some time show some redeeming quality, for "Na- 
ture never made a heart all marble, but in its fis- 
sures, sows the wild flower "LOVE" from whose 
rich seeds springs forth a world of mercies and 
sweet charities." Hope that we will not have to 
draw his brandy many days for I would willingly 
forego his brandy and everything else he has on 
board to be off this darned old craft. Had quite 
a scene, dozvn in our part of town, this morning 
between the Rev'd Mr. Home and Mr. Bottler. 
Mr. "H" said that the proprietor of the Can- 
ton Hotel in Honolulu, told him that Mr. B. left 
there without paying his bill. B. denied it and 
one word brought on another until the lie passed. 
The Rev'd gentleman called B. a liar, an infernal 
scoundrel, and abused B. and his father in pretty 
hard language, generally, threatening to write to 
the Island and prove that he did what he charged 
him with. B. abused him in turn and told him 
if he was not an old man, he would whip him; to 
this, the Rev'd gentleman told him he was young 
enough for him and dared him, "B" to strike him. 
Quite a crowd soon collected and some of them 
spoke rather hard about a minister doing as the 
Rev'd gentleman was then acting, which upon 



120 Notes on Land and Sea 

his hearing brought forth another tirade of abuse, 
directed principally against B — one of our mess. 
The Hon. called him a liar, infernal scoundrel, 
etc. and threatened to have him put in jail as soon 
as we landed. B laughed at him and so it ended 
for a while, until young B going down the main 
hatch for something, saw the Rev'd gentleman 
again, when another Battle in words took place. 
The Minister went to his berth and trunk and 
took out something which B said was a knife, 
anyhow, the gentleman kept his right hand behind 
him, whether he had a knife or not, and called 
upon the crowd to witness it. B again told him 
he was a hypocrite and if not an old man he 
would whip him. H, gritted his teeth, looked sav- 
age, called him a liar, infernal scoundrel and 
dared him to strike him, telling him again that he 
was young enough for him. This, like everything 
else — but a ring — had an end, and quiet once 
more reigned around us. A good many hard 
things were said on each side about private char- 
acter. The Holy gentleman threatened to write 
to E. where they had come from, and get evi- 
dence to prove that they were as mean as he rep- 
resented them. A preacher has as good a right 
probably, as any person to use such language 
as Mr, H. used, but then it sets us sinners a bad 
example, which we are too apt to follow, prefer- 
ring evil to good anyhow. My own opinion is that 



Notes on Land and Sea 121 

the Bible teaches us that if a man smites you on 
one cheek, turn to him the other; but our chaplain 
prefers to return the same he received, an eye for 
an eye and a tooth for a tooth. This is a free 
country and every man is entitled to his own 
opinion, so my opinion is that as peace is restored, 
I'll drop the subject. While eating dinner, a 
squall and rain made us hurry — that and ourselves 
— both down. Winds light through the day. In 
the afternoon we had another short quarrel and 
a few blows between Parish, a Swiss, and the 
second mate of this vessel. The cansf- of the 
rupture was a dirty trick played upon P by the 
mate a few nights since, so this afternoon, P ac- 
costed him and accused him of it, which he did 
not deny, but told Parish that it was not intended 
as an insult but if he took it so he would give him 
satisfaction, as soon as he was off duty or as soon 
as he landed. P charged around and spit in his 
face, which mate returned not wishing to strike 
first, as he was then on his watch, but P, not 
feeling satisfied, followed him and struck him, 
whereupon the mate turned upon him, pushed 
him down and would have beaten him severely if 
allowed. P drew a knife but it fell out of his 
hands and no harm was done with it. This made 
the Mate very savage and it required the Captain, 
1st Mate and someone else to hold him. Finally 
he was quieted and carried to the cabin to cool off. 



122 Notes on Land and Sea 

He says that the affair is not settled, but that he 
will wring P's neck at some future time, which 
he is very able to do, being large and strong. 
Supper of tea and potatoes, then a rain wound up 
this eventful Saturday. The wind improved af- 
ter sundown, driving the "Cachalot" along finely, 
when I went below and stretched myself on my 
plank. 

SUNDAY, JULY 28th. The wind during the 
night veered a little and increased considerably 
so that this morning finds us going ahead finely 
on our course. M is still low and very sick, 
though his appearance and symptoms are more 
favorable than for the last few days. Called 
to see Dr. Cade, of Georgia, this morning and 
found him quite sick — headache, nausea and fe- 
ver, very much like all who have had fever during 
the voyage. I would like much to hear Dr. D. 
of old Shelbyville preach to-day but instead of 
that I hear nothing but oaths and speculations 
on the length of our voyage and upon the gold 
mania generally. If such a thing were possible 
I would like to have a view — a sight — of all the 
passengers on board this old ship, twelve months 
hence, to see if they have realized their ex- 
pectations in leaving the comforts of home to dig 
a fortune in California's far famed dirt, but that 
being impossible, I'll guess what I do not know. 
Besides, I had really rather not know if for knowl- 



Notes on Land and Sea 123 

edge is purchased at the expense of life as was 
said to be the case with old Adam, for I find it 
reported somewhere that the first man who ate 
of the apple of knowledge died of indigestion. 
The Captain was as good as his word and gave us 
a bottle of brandy'to each mess — this morning. 
No preaching to-day. "Why?" I know not. 
After eating our duff and fresh pork, I laid down, 
and read and dozed away part of the afternoon. 
Some of the passengers did the same, while some 
played cards, and others talked and whiled the 
day away as usual. Oh, for one Sunday evening 
at home, to enjoy the society of kindred and 
friends. 3^/2 months have elapsed since I bid 
adieu to old Shelbyville and its inhabitants and 
what have I done? In one sense — nothing in 
another, much. I have made nothing and spent 
much, for the first, while for the latter I have 
seen a good deal of the world and much more 
of human nature. I have seen what I do not care 
to put in black and white. But N.C. here goes 
for something else. The wind continued favor- 
able through the day and when old Sol retired 
our vessel was walking the waters like a thing 
of life. 

MONDAY, JULY 29th., 1850. During the 
night we made a gallant run but towards morn- 
ing the wind changed a point or so and prevented 
the "Cachalot" from making such headway (be- 



124 Notes on Land and Sea 

ing too close on the wind — to keep her course) 
to sail as fast as when she has a wind free. Brandy 
again this morning. Dr. C. of Georgia is ap- 
parently better this morning, hope he may con- 
tinue to improve. M. is also better in every 
respect and with good attention will "if no re- 
lapse occurs" convalesce as speedily as a person 
can (on this craft) who has been ill as he has. 
Card playing, washing, mending and the usual 
avocations of the passengers goes on this morn- 
ing, as usual while others are speculating upon 
the probable length of our voyage and the pros- 
pects of suddenly acquiring a fortune in Cali- 
fornia. Finished reading a novel this evening, 
called "Self" and in the principal character there 
is described I can see a fac-simile in many per- 
sons on board this vessel. Self is predominant 
and so much plainer does it appear here than 
I ever saw it before, that my former opinion is 
more fully confirmed than ever that there is no 
such a thing as disinterestedness. As the day 
closed the wind became more unfavorable driv- 
ing us North and N. West, contrary to where 
we wish to go. Oh, that this old boat had wheels 
and an engine to drive her through the vasty 
deep against all opposition ! We have now been 
out 55 days and are a long way off our destina- 
tion yet. 'Tis almost enough to drive a man 
crazy and were it not that there are so many 



Notes on Land and Sea 125 

of us here "as misery loves company" would come 
near doing me up. And now to my plank and 
sleep. 

TUESDAY, JULY 30th, 1850. Waking up, I 
found the sun shining brightly on our right and 
the darned old ship going N. W. — where I know 
not, probably in search of Sir John Franklin. 
After washing off some dirt and washing more in, 
I called on Dr. C. and found him doing about 
as well as could be expected. Dressed his blister 
and visited M who I found about as yesterday. 
His condition is such as to justify the belief that 
he will be on his legs by the time we reach Cali- 
fornia. After breakfast, tacked ship and stood 
East by south, traveling slowly with a light wind. 
In my sleep last night I visited old Shelbyville 
and held sweet converse with some of its citizens, 
but with returning consciousness, I found 

"The spell was broke, the charm was flown ! 
Thus it is with life's fitful fever. 
We madly smile when we should groan; 
Delirium is our best deceiver." 

About noon we had a rain and then a calm, roll- 
ing, rolling on old Ocean's bosom without pro- 
gressing any. Were it not for cooking and eat- 
ing, what should we do? In faith, I know not. 
Broiling meat, roasting and frying pumpkin and 
bread constitutes the chief employment of some. 



126 Notes on Land and Sea 

and I think that those who never ate pumpkin 
before can now eat it fried, roasted or boiled. 
What a change circumstance works on us mor- 
tals. The wind sprung up at sunset and so closed 
the day. 

WEDNESDAY, JULY 31st, 1850. On waking 
up this morning found the sun up and the wind 
tolerable free and fair, and the old ship plowing 
her way through the briny deep in the direction of 
San Francisco at the rates of 6 or 7 knots per 
hour. Saw Dr. C who is better, able to sit up 
and walk about some. M is improving, but so 
slow as to be scarcely perceivable. The length 
of his sickness, bad air and impossibility of get- 
ting regimen suitable for sick persons, all com- 
bined, render his convalescence very tardy. But 
Hope, the Anchor upon which we all cling holds 
out a flag of ultimate success, unless some un- 
toward change for the worse should take place. 
After breakfast, we had another scene between 
Mr. B and the Rev'd. Mr. Home which the pas- 
sengers decided to have nothing to do with and so 
it ended, I hope forever, for it is certainly dis- 
agreeable to see persons from the same country 
"all time quarreling and at loggerheads," so far 
from home as we are and all going to the same 
place and for the same purpose. Rainy, rainy 
and disagreeable. Bad dinner and bad weather 
give passengers bad temper as was seen by a quar- 



Notes on Land and Sea 127 

rel in the roof soon after soup. L. & E. The 
wind continued strong until night, which was 
cool, yes cold, rendering blankets and overcoats 
comfortable. Thus ended July 1850 with a wet, 
cold, dark night. 

THURSDAY, AUGUST ist, 1850. Last night 
was cold and to me a long night, gloomy and 
uncomfortable to most the passengers and this 
morning the first of August is as cold here as 
an October morning at home. The wind con- 
tinued pretty stiff through the night and this 
morning we are going ahead to "Californy" right 
gallantly. Dr. C. is rather worse to-day, the 
glands of neck all very much swollen, so much 
so as to impede respiration and deglutition. 
Ordered a poultice of light breva-tobacco and 
onions — and a blister to his nape, M. is clear of 
fever and appears to be improving, though slow- 
ly. Several of those ugly birds called "Stinkers" 
that were caught yesterday were cooked and 
eaten by some of the passengers this morning. I 
did not partake, but from their appearance and 
the avidity with which they were eaten it was 
about as good as anything we get on this d — d 
French ship. Cool and cloudy at noon, with light 
wind. I am in hopes now of getting on shore, 
some time this month as we are not more than 
1000 miles from our destination, and this only 
the first day of August. To-day, all was peace- 



128 Notes on Land and Sea 

ful and quiet, no quarrels and no fights. Duff 
for dinner, and rice and molasses for supper, 
after which there was a game of Hat on the poop 
deck. As the sun retired the wind revived and at 
8 o'clock we were progressing finely. To bed. 
FRIDAY, AUGUST 2nd., 1850. One more day 
to be got over in some way. During the night 
the wind lulled and the old "Cachalot" rocked 
most confoundedly, notwithstanding I managed 
to doze and dream away the night, for which 
I was so thankful that I was forced like Sancho 
Panza to exclaim — "blessed is the man that in- 
vented sleep." I've wished often since this voy- 
age begun that I could take such a Nap as Rip 
Van Winkle enjoyed. Not quite so long, but until 
the shores of California hove in sight. Cool, 
cloudy and wind light this morning, but what 
little we have is bearing us on our course, to the 
long desired port. Dr. C. is about the same, no 
reduction in the swelling of his face and neck. 
Ordered a hot poultice and broken doses of Ipe- 
cac. M is improving, but so slow as to wear 
a sick man's patience "which they don't often 
have" completely out. From noon until night 
we had no wind, the surface of old ocean was 
smooth and placid, just swell enough to keep us 
rolling gently. About supper time a shower, just 
enough to be vastly disagreeable. When will this 
end? I hope soon, for of all places to wear one 



Notes on Land and Sea 129 

out, this beats any I ever saw. About dusk there 
was some indications of a breeze; but none came, 
so I turned in disappointed again. 
SATURDAY, AUGUST 3rd, 1850. Passed an- 
other disagreeable night, our old craft rolling 
about but making no headway, the calm of yes- 
terday continuing all night and this morning 
finds us here, to all appearances in the same place, 
rolling on the deep blue sea. The Star of hope 
at times seems as if it were about setting or 
hiding itself behind some gloomy cloud; all ap- 
pears dark and dreary to us worn out voyagers, 
then a few beams from the nearly hidden star 
will fall on us to cheer us on and bid us be of 
good hope. Saw Dr. C. who is in Statu Quo, 
M is convalescing, but very slow. The other 
sick aboard are all improving. Our appetites are 
almost ravenous which is essential to enable us 
to eat and digest our hard fare. About 12, we 
saw a number of large fish, called Black Fish. 
They look something like a porpoise except their 
head and nose which is larger and blunter, in fact, 
they are quite a pug-nose looking animal. Wind 
light, nearly calm, dull and gloomy, all out of 
heart and low-spirited. Oh for a wind ! Pur- 
chased ^ dozen bottles of Ale which I trust 
will help me through with our hard meat and 
bread. All quiet on board, probably from imita- 
tion, as we are all creatures of imitation, as the 



130 Notes on Land and Sea 

sea has been quiet and calm now for the last few 
days. Cloudy and warmer than for the last few 
days and looks like rain. Wish it would and then 
have a fair wind. And so ends the day. 
SUNDAY, AUGUST 4th., 1850. Awoke this 
morning and found the old craft running pretty 
fair, the wind having sprung up about 4 o'clock 
this morning. Breakfast of fresh pork and cof- 
fee over, the usual scenes of ship life commence, 
and though to-day is the day set apart for rest 
and religious exercises, very little of the latter is 
done here. Dr. C. about the same. M. is con- 
valescing. Card playing goes on as on any other 
day and in fact were it not known by keeping an 
account of the time, one would never know when 
Sunday came on board this vessel, so callous have 
we all grown as regards the observance of reli- 
gious worship. Nearly every night we have a 
discussion of some kind, among the passengers— 
frequently political — which often ends in party, 
and sometimes, personal abuse. This is wrong, 
for if men can't agree it is no reason why each 
one should not be entitled to his opinion, for 
the man who will not admit that each party may 
honestly maintain its peculiar opinions is a BI- 
GOT with whom it is vain to argue and towards 
whom anger would be ridiculous. Hung my 
greasy trousers over the bows to let them wash 
themselves, as I could not. After dinner, we had 



Notes on Land and Sea 131 

a better wind and had the sight of a whale, who 
came up a few rods astern of us and "blowed" 
a while, then disappeared. He was of pretty 
good size and attracted considerable attention; 
being the first one we have seen. Calm again and 
continued so until old Sol went to rest, when I 
did the same, about eight. 
MONDAY, AUGUST 5th., 1850. The old ship 
rocked and rolled all last night in the troughs of 
old Ocean — so much so that I passed a disagree- 
able night and got up this morning with pain 
and aches all over me. Going on deck I found 
the wind fair and good, but It soon changed to a 
headwind and then ceased blowing from jany 
quarter leaving us to roll about as before. Half 
done beans and broth for dinner which I did not 
touch. Dr. C. continues about the same, the 
swelling of his glands and neck, undiminished. 
M. is on the rising order and though ailing man- 
ages to swallow down some of his ale. In the 
afternoon, we had a little more wind and travelled 
all o'er the glad waters of the deep blue sea 
with sails full and a wind that followed fast. 
About supper we had indications of rain, but it 
passed away and left us before. Called in to see 
L. in the roof and found him suffering consider- 
ably with pain in the abdomen, something like 
colic. Gave him an opii pill and directed hot ap- 
plications. After sundown had a sight of the 



132 Notes on Land and Sea 

evening star which looked red and brilliant and 
what was strange, there was another star appar- 
ently within two feet of it, nearly equal in size and 
brilliancy. I never saw the like before and heard 
the same remarked by several of the passengers. 
They both disappeared gradually and the wind in- 
creasing we traveled on a little faster and with 
better spirits. 

TUESDAY, AUGUST 6th., 1850. Slept but 
little last night having to be up with L. who ap- 
peared to suffer considerably. Gave him SrOpii, 
Chi. Ether and Spts. Camphor a a, which acted 
like a charm and soon quieted him, when I turned 
in again and slept sound until daylight. During 
the night, the wind continuing fair, we made a 
better run than we had done for the last few 
days, and this morning found us going on finely; 
but a squall and rain coming up about breakfast 
time killed off the wind and left us doing as we 
have done for the last three or four days — noth- 
ing. Dr. C. is clear of fever but his neck con- 
tinues about the same. On examining closely, I 
found both ears were enormously distended from 
which a thick matter was exuding. Ordered a 
light bread poultice to his throat but the Captain, 

d n him, would not give a small piece of 

bread for that purpose, telling B, who applied 
for it, to make a poultice out of the hard and 
wormy biscuits; which he gives us to eat. I 



Notes on Land and Sea 133 

wish he had one, crossways in his throat and it 
had to stay there until I removed it — guess he'd 

suffer a while d n him. M. is improving, tho' 

ale-'mg. After dinner another chunk of a fight 
at the roof between Mr. C. KS and Mr. L. They 
passed a few licks and were separated, neither 
being hurt. Wind light all day and traveled 
slowly. Cloudy and rained a little. Dull time, 
all getting impatient. Sunset was beautiful and 
then comes night. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 7, 1850. After roll- 
ing about all night, the wind sprang up this morn- 
ing and carried us along at the rate of 5 knots 
in as many hours. I slept sound and arose in 
time to eat some wormy bread and drink some 
miserable bad coffee. Called to see Dr. C. and 
found him to be about the same as yesterday, no 
diminution in his swelled neck; poor fellow, he 
has had and will have a hard time of it. M. is 
coming it slowly. L. is in about the same situa- 
tion as yesterday — having suffered more or less 
all night. Saw those two stars again last evening. 
They were about the same distance apart as the 
evening before, but did not shine so brilliantly. 
Washing, card playing, little writing and etc., 
as usual. Nothing new to break the monotony 
of the times. Oh ! for a wind to send us in. A 
good many of the passengers ale-mg to-day on ac- 
count of the wind being better than for the last 



134 Notes on Land and Sea 

four or five, which puts them all in better spirits. 
To-day about noon the eclipse of the sun was vis- 
ible to us tho not so plain as I expected to see it. 
The intercepting body passed across the lower 
third of the sun and was visible only a short time. 
New moon to-day and the wind being good and 
fair, I hope it may continue long enough to run 
us to our long desired port. Had a PAN CAKE 
for supper, after which saw L., with Dr. Young 
who examined him and agreed to use G & Q aa 
Opii, SSpilutars. Sumat tres hori. The day ended 
and leaving the old ship to run by herself, I 
turned in. 

THURSDAY, AUGUST 8th., 1850. Awoke 
this morning and heard the rain pattering down 
on decks, most beautiful. I lay still for a short 
time while it ceased raining and I went up on 
deck and saw — , "What?" the same cheerless and 
dull scene that has been presenting itself ever 
since leaving Panama — Sky and water and oc- 
casionally clouds. We made a pretty fair run last 
night and are doing finely to-day. If the wind 
continues as It is, a few days longer our voyage 
will be at an end, as we have indications that 
land is not as far from us now as it were a week 
ago. The clouds look a little different and rhose 
persons who sleep on deck, (and some have done 
so the whole voyage) say that the dews are much 
heavier now than a few days back. To-day 



Notes on Land and Sea 135 

we had another chunk of a fight on top the roof, 
the cause of which was a little different from the 
first fight we had on board, for then it was Vinegar 
and to-day it was sugar, one sour and the other 
one sweet. Strange that reasonable men will 
fight one another for such trifles. My patients 
all appear better to-day. Had Duff for dinner. 
Gramy announced this evening that he was done 
sewing for this voyage. Towards sundown the 
wind nearly ceased and left us to roll about on 
the breathings of old ocean one more night. Sup- 
per, and sundown follows, then comes night, when 
we go down below, turn in, sleep — dream and 
sleep. 

FRIDAY MORNING, AUGUST 9th., 1850. 
Was awakened this morning by the rolling of the 
vessel, when I turned out, went up and found the 
same scene — sky and water — the sails all hanging 
and flapping loosely on their spars and as a natu- 
ral consequence the old ship scarcely making head- 
way enough to steer her straight. Holy Moses, 
when will this end! The sick all appear to be 
improving except Dr. C. who remains much the 
same. The elements continue calm all day, to 
make up for which some of No. 4 mess and the 
Launche denizens became a little boisterous. They 
were not full, just had plenty. Nothing more 
occurred to break the monotony of the day and 
old Sol gradually hid himself in the deep dark 



136 Notes on Land and Sea 

sea looking fiery and red, as if he too had been 
on a jollification. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST loth., 1850. Arose 
from a sound night's sleep and found the wind 
fair and the "Cachalot" walking the waters like 
a thing of life. The passengers talking and 
speculating on the probabilities of seeing land 
to-day, but all in vain, for as breakfast was over 
the wind gradually died off, and left us rolling 
about as before. Hope deferred maketh the 
heart sick. Disappointment lurks in many a prize, 
like bees in flowers and stings us men with success. 
Just as we expected to be speedily blown Into 
our long desired haven, the wind ceased and 
left us to roll away another day on old Ocean's 
bosom. Early this morning some of the passen- 
gers saw the spouting of one of the monsters of 
the great deep, and again this evening we could 
see them in several directions, throwing up the 
spray from the briny deep and occasionally show- 
ing their sides and great fins to our staring gaze. 
Several times during the day the cry of "land" 
was heard but no such good luck awaited us, and 
old Sol retired to his watery bed leaving us 
where he found us In the morning — on the vasty 
deep, 

SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST nth., 1850. 
After lying down last night, the New Yorkers 
commenced their political discussion again and 



Notes on Land and Sea 137 

carried it so far that the passengers after asking 
them in vain to desist, commenced in self defense, 
to sing, laugh, talk, holler and imitate dogs and 
other animals, until the whole steerage was one 
continual uproar, when they ceased; if political 
discussion commenced again they would do the 
same and kept it up until the Y's gave it up in 
disgust. During the night the wind sprang up 
and we made a pretty fair run but this Sabbath 
morning finds us moving slowly, with light wind 
and an appearance of rain. After breakfast the 
wind freshened up and carried us along at the rate 
of 6 or 7 knots per hour. The sea has changed 
from a deep blue to a greenish color, which in- 
dicates soundings and a nearer contiguity to land 
than we have been since leaving the Islands. Saw 
an object floating to leeward to-day which was 
supposed to be the wreck of some small vessel. 
My patients all improving while my patience is 
nearly exhausted. After dinner a good many 
of the passengers saw — land — or what they 
thought was dirt. Heavy fogs appeared in the 
direction of the Coast — at one time so thick that 
you could scarcely see the ship's length ahead. A 
good many speculations and some bets whether or 
not land was really in sight or not, were made. 
At one time it appeared to be land, then a fog 
would intervene and all appearance of dirt would 
vanish. This continued until about supper time 



138 Notes on Land and Sea 

when all doubts were removed and Uncle Sam's 
soil once more ! after a voyage of 67 days from 
Panama on the trackless deep was presented to 
our admiring gaze. All was joy and mirth on 
board. Despondency and gloom gave way to 
cheerfulness and gaiety. The bold outlines of 
the coast became more distinct towards night, 
large mountains apparently covered with snow 
extending up along the coast as far as the eye 
could scan. The wind continued to increase until 
I turned in for the night when it was blowing a 
considerable gale driving us right on to the en- 
trance of the bay. Saw several sails before dark. 
MONDAY, AUGUST 12th., 1850. Last night 
was the coldest we have had and was the coldest 
I ever felt in August. All the night through the 
wind blowed and whistled through the rigging 
at an "orfule" rate making the old "Cachalot" 
creak in every joint. The waves were high, and 
came leaping on as though they would engulf us, 
but the old ship rode them safely through. The 
Captain kept her standing on and off the en- 
trance until daylight when he could see how to 
steer her in. As soon as day came, we ran into 
the entrance "to the bay" which is i^^ mile 
wide, on each side of which appear large hills 
apparently very much resembling the hills and 
mountains on the Islands. We saw several ves- 
sels, just within the mouth of the harbor, but 



Notes on Land and Sea 139 

whether they were inward or outward bound I 
know not. The rising sun makes the hills and 
the bay spread out before us, look beautiful and 
grand. Wild ducks here are numerous. At 
length we have passed through the Golden Gate 
and are now in sight of the great City of San 
Francisco, with its harbor and thousands of ves- 
sels from all parts of the universe. 

DISAPPOINTMENT IN CALIFORNIA 

Many who go to California have pictured to 
themselves an El Dorado, where gold was abun- 
dant "like the drunken husband's milk, lying 
loose" and the people there wanting in sagacity, 
and where they were to become suddenly rich in 
some ujikjhown but easy manner. This same 
weakness of mind that indulged in such absurd 
expectations produces petulance in disappoint- 
ment. Such persons become embittered against 
the country on finding that there, as everywhere 
else, a man must sow before he reaps; must win 
wealth by industry and talent and ^'-.'< contend 
with the common difficulties of nature and the 
shrewdness of an intelligent and enterprising peo- 
ple, as well as the polished rascal, with his plaus- 
ible theories and brilliant temptations of risking 
a little and making a good deal. Having to con- 
tend with all these heterologous influences he soon 



I40 Notes on Land and Sea 

becomes disheartened and dissatisfied and curses 
himself for going to it, and the country for not 
realizing his anticipation. 



